The way I do it is to find my shim stack needed to give me the barrel/cyl clearance (I use .002" for that clearance). No need to be super picky about the "exact" thickness of the stack (or you can cut a piece of rod to length if you have suitable stock), you can dress the end of the arbor down to "zero in" the clearance needed if the shim/shimming is slightly too thick. I say this so you want spend so much time getting the shims/shim "just right" (it can drive some folks nuts!!!).
When you're satisfied with your stack, degrease the arbor hole, lube the arbor, use a little grease on the end of the arbor to hold the first shim of the stack in place. Now, a tiny bit of JBweld on the shim and put the next shim in place. Follow suit with the rest of the stack and on the last shim, put a generous amount of JB to fill out the end of the arbor hole.
Carefully assemble the revolver (including the cylinder) and tap the wedge FIRMLY in place.
I use the JB quick product so 10 mins later I can disassemble the revolver and inspect/ clean up every thing. Then re-assemble and check bbl/cyl clearance. If needed you can add a shim and/or dress the arbor to "zero in" on the clearance desired.
It sounds like a lot (written out) but it's a quick way to get it done when you have several to do at a time.
Also, the other reason I bring the bottom of the hole up to meet the arbor, It leaves the arbor free to drill (where you were going to anyway) the end, thread it and install a set screw which will become the bearing surface for the WEDGE to push against. That means it does NOT stick out past the end of the arbor (that would interfere with the spacing you just did!!)
The set screw, ground flat so as not to dig into the wedge is just an adjustable bearing that will allow you to "customize" the placement/ fitting of the wedge to suit your needs. You may want the wedge in further (to clear holsters easier) or you may want to maintain a "like new" (just through the off side) position. As the parts wear/set, you can maintain position and use of the same wedge for the life of the revolver. I use a 1/4" set screw and steel for the shims by the way.
Mike
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