Cap sucking solution?

[99whip]

I assume it's okay to post this.  Interesting video from Mike Beliveau on a method to address and perhaps solve cap sucking issues

[ssb73q]

Hi whip, beat you to it:

http://blackpowdersmoke.com/colt/index.php?topic=960.msg16666#msg16666

However, this may be a good place to point out that in his video he said there was still cap sucking with the hammer slot filled in. That suggests to me that there is much more to this cap sucking than Mike B identified. A more significant test would be to not have a cap jam after a dozen cylinders shot, not just one or two cylinders. While I do believe that Mike B shows results consistent with my Pietta Yank observation, there's more work to do IMO. My 1862 Navy seemed to show good cap handling results with a silver solder filled in hammer slot, but I had too few cylinders shot to be able to say that fixes replica Colt cap sucking.

IMO there is one observation I have made that can be taken to the bank, replica Colt cap sucking is inversely proportional to the revolver size.

Regards,
Richard

[99whip]

Hey Richard,

I think the other thing about Mikes possible solution is that it seems like with all the guys out there that like tinkering with these guns (myself incl.) it seems like someone would have thought of or tried it.  In part because there is already an emphasis on tune-ups, part polishing etc, etc.  That could mean something, or nothing at all.  Do you think the initial filing he does on the hammer face impacts it's hardening at all?

I agree with you that a few cylinders probably isn't a large enough sample size.  Am I likely to try it out for myself though, probably....lol. 

Whip

[ssb73q]

Hi whip, I know from filing the 6$ silver solder out of the hammer face that the hammer face is still pretty darn hard. A file barely mars the bluing. BTW, small diamond faced jeweler's files can be bought cheap that wouldn't any trouble doing the hammer face edge bevel job.

I would have liked to see photos of Mike B's spent caps. IMO there is an outside chance that in addition to preventing caps being pulled back that breaking the sharp edges prevents the caps from splitting. A sharp edge may influence a cap to fragment where it is more likely to find its way in the action?

Regards,
Richard

[99whip]

I am going to have some time this week to do a little tinkering and shooting which I'm looking forward too, I may decide to try this modification and see how it works out, if I do will advise.  Will also pay close attention to the condition of spent caps.

I would think you're right about the sharp edges inducing more fragments, makes good sense to me.

[Len]

Made a washer/shim that fits on the recoil shield flange of the Manhattan Navy. Idea is to reduce the gap to prevent cap fragments falling down into the ratchet area.

[ssb73q]

Hi Len, interesting, thanks for posting the photo. Is there any downside? Do you use that device? How well does it work?

Regards,
Richard

[Len]

Hi Richard,
been using it for some time now and it works as intended. Downside is, that there is little space for the caps to go free, so have to make certain caps are pressed to the bottom. And it does not prevent caps to fall down into the hammer recess if the hammer pulls the caps off. Anyhow, it's a thingie that does not make any infringements on this original gun.

[Hawg]

It looks like it covers the cap channel that was originally designed to allow caps to fall free.

[Len]

I'm not sure about that, but when rotating for the next chamber, fragments will follow out to the right.

[Len]

Shot the Manhattan navy this morning. I'm very pleased with it.
Pix of the mounted shim. No cap issues today.

[ssb73q]

Hi Len, thanks for the photos, neat! What's nice about your device is that one plate can be used for a number of revolver of the same frame size. I would think that an ambitious person could make a die, punch them out, and sell these shields.

What is the material? Would aluminum be strong enough? I wonder if the area over the cap area was not cut out, if the hammer force hitting the shield would have enough force to fire caps? That would totally contain the caps.

Regards,
Richard

[Len]

Hello Richard,
material is carbon steel, regular type. I suppose alu will do the job but I thought the quarter part of the ring was so thin that I wanted something harder. If alu, I'd go for Dural (aircraft stuff, solution hardened).
Your idea of an in-between-hammer-nipple-sheet is interesting. If I try that, something springy is needed. Food for thought!

[Hawg]

What is the material? Would aluminum be strong enough? I wonder if the area over the cap area was not cut out, if the hammer force hitting the shield would have enough force to fire caps? That would totally contain the caps.

I'd think all you'd do is batter the hammer.

[Len]

Why so grumpy? It's an interesting idea. I'm gonna try it. If it doesn't work I'll just ditch it.
Have found some material my dad "took home" from the aircraft industry, sheets of beryllium copper (2.2% Be, 1% Ni and the rest Cu) very hard and springy. Will report. First have to decide on the config.