2f or RS in brassers

[Don]

Been messing around with my brass framed revolvers lately and decided to try shooting them loaded with 2f or Pyrodex RS instead of reduced loads of 3f or Pyro P. I figured this would reduce some of the pressures and strain on the brass frames while giving me a chance to use up my larger grained powders. I loaded 30 grains in my .44's and 25 in my .36's. These gave me the power equivalents of the reduced 3f and P loads with still no signs of wear and tear on the frames. Pyrodex seems to give better velocities while the black is more consistent shot to shot. Have you fellas done the same and what's your impressions of this way of utilizing 2f in brassers?

Don

[Hawg]

Sooner or later you're going to beat it into a paperweight with 30 grains.

[Electric Miner]

30 grains of anything in a brass frame seems a little heavy to me, too.

[mike116]

Yep.

[Don]

I was hesitant at first to load that much but after I chronographed those loads and saw that velocities where similar or a tad slower than the reduced loads of 3f and P loads I was less apprehensive. When loading a .44 brasser with 3f or P I use 25 grains and no more. Much less and the revolver isn't much use for anything other than punching paper. With the 25 grain load of P I have had no adverse effects on my revolver after many rounds. If the performance of the larger load of RS matches the smaller load of P then the pressures and stresses must be likewise similar at least logically. After I shoot my brassers I look carefully at the recoil shield and the tightness of the cylinder pin. Thus far no problems noted. I may be pushing it but it seems silly to me to have any firearm that doesn't have any defensive potential.

Don

[Captainkirk]

I may be pushing it but it seems silly to me to have any firearm that doesn't have any defensive potential.
Don

...and thus the quandary of the ubiquitous brasser.
Quite frankly, 25gr "P" is max load in a brasser. While I've shot RS out of mine in a pinch, I don't like it; the grains are too big to meter well into a small .450 chamber and the performance is not equal compared to the finer grained P.
About all brassers are good for is collecting and paper-punching; they are darn good at the latter with reduced loads. They would probably suffice as an emergency defense weapon at distances less than 35 yards, but not much after that.
If you are bound and determined to use a BP revolver as a defense tool, get a steelie and load up with Pyro P or 3F behind a Lee conical....

[Don]

I do have steel framed revolvers and load them hotter without worries. I am the kind that likes to experiment, with in reason, to see what can be done. Thanks all for your replies.

Don

[Captainkirk]

I do have steel framed revolvers and load them hotter without worries. I am the kind that likes to experiment, with in reason, to see what can be done. Thanks all for your replies.

Don

Then you are all set. Save the brasser for light loads and paper-punching and enjoy it.

[Hawg]

I may be pushing it but it seems silly to me to have any firearm that doesn't have any defensive potential.

They weren't intended to.

[Captainkirk]

Well, Scooby...I say that with the following in mind; I don't consider ANY of my BP revolvers a defense weapon (against two-legged critters, anyway). Not when I can pack one of my modern defense guns. Sure, any one of them (brassers included) would likely do the job thwarting unruly muggers of the four-legged variety, but I'd sooner use something with a little more oomph. And with the two-legged variety...no question.
Bottom line; if I think I'm gonna need it, I have better tools for the job.
I re-read my post and it sounded a little disparaging. It was not meant to be. The brasser is a fine weapon in it's own right and I own several and have owned more yet. I have yet to find me a sweet G&G and when I do, I will buy it. A Spiller & Burr is also on the short list for someday.
Back to the OP's question...while RS is not my powder of choice for a revolver, if you feel the pressures are in line with 3F and you feel comfortable shooting it, go right ahead. However, I think 30gr might be detrimental to the overall longevity of a brasser in the long run. But that's just my opinion, and mine only.

[mike116]

I don't want Scooby to shoot me with his G&G with 20-25 grains of powder and a round ball and I doubt anyone else does either, but a steady diet of 30 grains whether it be Pyrodex P or RS is going to be detrimental to the life span of a brass frame revolver.  A lighter load will be easier on the gun and still do the job.   

[Hawg]

Personally I won't go over 15 grains in a brass frame. I have almost ruined a brass .36 Remington with 25 grains of RS. Maybe the brass in it is softer than current productions, I dunno.

[mike116]

20 grains in my G&G,   I have an old brass frame Remington that I don't shoot but I used to shoot 25 grains in it.   It's still in near new shape but Inly use it for molding holsters now.

[ssb73q]

Hi Don, IMO it doesn't make a dimes worth of difference using either 3f or 2f in .44 caliber revolvers. Larger powder grains allow more of the load to quickly ignite because of the air space between grains. You may want to limit the load to 25gr to preserve your brass frame revolvers. My favorite BP sub is Black Mz that has a grain size close to rock salt.

You had a good question and it shows you care about your revolvers.

Regards,
Richard

[Captainkirk]

Hi Don, IMO it doesn't make a dimes worth of difference using either 3f or 2f in .44 caliber revolvers. Larger powder grains allow more of the load to quickly ignite because of the air space between grains. You may want to limit the load to 25gr to preserve your brass frame revolvers. My favorite BP sub is Black Mz that has a grain size close to rock salt.

You had a good question and it shows you care about your revolvers.

Regards,
Richard

Well, for what it's worth, Richard DOES have a chronograph available to back up his data...