The cheapest Colt on the market?

[mike116]

Gary Barnes aka Hoofhearted on this forum will build you in .44.

[Hawg]

Not a problem Hawg, http://1858remington.com/discuss/index.php?topic=8675.0

I did check with Howell Old West about building a Gated Conversion in 5 shot 44 Colt but they said they didn't offer that.
I'm sure I could get a Kirst custom built but haven't checked with them.

I'm thinking you could go with a 6 shot in .44 Colt.

[AntiqueSledMan]

The problem with 6 shot is the bolt notches need to be directly above the chamber, causing it to be very thin. If you go 5 shot the bolt notches would be in between the chambers where they would not bother. I think you can get by with a single tooth hand on a 5 shot, the 6 shot would require a double tooth hand.

[Captainkirk]

Hey Guys,

Cabela's has these on sale for $150 with free shipping. I purchased one last time they were on sale, I also found a steel frame which I plan on turning into a Cartridge Conversion w/loading gate as soon as I can come up with a 5 shot 44 Colt Cylinder.

BartSr placed a steel ring on a Spesco 1851 but the links are no longer active. I did copy all & put into a word doc, but to big to add as an attachment. I thought he did an excellent job reworking the inner ring with a steel replacement. I'm not sure how long it would last, but it looked like an improvement.

Interesting. Anyone remember how BartSr attached the washer...silver solder, etc?

[AntiqueSledMan]

I edited my articles content, here's what he did.

[Captainkirk]

Thanks for that info, ASM!
A few more worries on my part...
If you recall, this is the frame I tried to repair several years ago by removing the roll pin staking the arbor in, rilling and tapping the roll pin for a 4-40 screw, and reinstalling the loose arbor using Loctite and the screw in place of the roll pin. It worked well...for about a dozen shots.
Then the slide hammer effect got down to business and worked it loose again...my bad, because I did nothing to repair the excessive cylinder gap as a result to the inner ring being battered.
So, now this old frame has become my guinea pig to experiment on.
First step is to remove the set screw...



...and unscrew the arbor.



A quick view reveals the threaded hole is somewhat elongated (egg-shaped) and dangerously close to the hand slot. This is what is throwing the stick in my spokes, as my intended repair involved drilling this threaded hole oversize and installing a Helicoil insert. Now Im not sure if there is enough material to accomplish the task...
A closer view:



I may forge ahead and try it. Worst that can happen is I'll trash an already junk frame. But I will have to invest $30.00-$40.00 in a Helicoil insert kit for 8X1.25 metric inserts, and if it's not going to work, that's wasted money. I believe I will look at my other brassers to see if they have more material on the frame than this particular Pietta frame does. If not, I may revert to my Plan B, which involved cross-drilling though both frame and arbor and securing with another set screw.
BTW, I was able to find a source for a new steel frame (Taylor's):

http://www.taylorsfirearms.com/pietta-1851-navy-parts.html

Item number 14 as follows:

1 x #14 - A340.A44 Navy Frame Steel Finished .44 (Includes Parts #13,14,37,41)   +$177.00

...but at $177.00 + shipping, you could pretty much buy a nice steel framed revolver if you add in the cost of your 100 dollar brasser.
If you already HAVE the brasser, that may not be a bad option at less than the cost of a new steel Navy.
But not wanting to get off track here; the original goal was to be able to develop a mod to easy and reliable shooting of a brasser with normal loads.

[Hawg]

IMO that one is too far gone. I'd find another donor to try it on.

[Captainkirk]

IMO that one is too far gone. I'd find another donor to try it on.

I wasn't actually going to try to repair this frame for re-use...this one is a guinea pig for experimenting on. FWIW, this frame was replaced by an unfired brass frame off Gunbroker for the grand sum of $15.00...but it's still a brass frame, if you get my drift.

[Hawg]

Yeah but if it doesn't work you're out the money for the helicoil

[Captainkirk]

Yeah but if it doesn't work you're out the money for the helicoil

The Helicoil is about two bucks. It's the install kit that costs a lot. I think before making the plunge I will measure a few more frames. This one might just be damaged or overmachined.

[AntiqueSledMan]

Hey Captain,

I'd try an insert instead of a helicoil. I personally don't like helicoils.
How did you remove the stake pin? I need to fix one also. I was told to bearing
mount it in place with frame attached while setting, then drill & tap for setscrew.

Of course Cabela's now have the steel framed 1851 in 44 caliber listed for $250,
choice of 7.37" barrel or 4.87" barrel.

[Captainkirk]

Hey Captain,

I'd try an insert instead of a helicoil. I personally don't like helicoils.

Of course Cabela's now have the steel framed 1851 in 44 caliber listed for $250,
choice of 7.37" barrel or 4.87" barrel.

...and there's the rub...

[Captainkirk]

Hey Captain,

I'd try an insert instead of a helicoil. I personally don't like helicoils.

What sort of insert, and would there be room for it?

[AntiqueSledMan]

I don't know what thread the arbor is, never had one out yet. I'm sure it would be metric, look here. https://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-threaded-inserts/=158qpuj
We've used a smaller one & drilled & tapped to what we need.

[dc7x64]

  They bought it for $150.00 new? My 1851 Navy .44 cal Sheriff's model could use a 7.5" spare barrel (125.00 from VTI). And spare internal parts (49.95 from Cabelas). Sooooooo......I will give them $100.00! Good Deal!!!!!!!