Casting temperature

[Hawg]

I had a 63 paper cutter business rifle but I sold it.

[ShotgunDave]

That's a damn fine rifle too Hawg.

I keep contemplating selling mine. I REALLY want a nice L.C. Smith SxS, and the only way that will be in the cards is if I sell something. Selling my Sharps would get me the closest. But I keep talking myself out of it.

[Hawg]

I've got an LC Smith but it isn't nice.

[Powder Burn]

Indeed I do Powder Burn! It's an 1863 Paper Cutter model. Damn fine shooter. Highly recommend.

I am getting tears in my eyes. Man-0-man,I bet that is a hoot to shoot. I guess I always wanted a Quigley, ever since I seen Tom Selleck in the movie.

[mazo kid]

Back to the temperature topic.... frosty bullets don't hurt anything, they shoot great. It just means the lead temp. is too hot. Different molds and mold materials all have different temp requirements to produce good projectiles. Just cast at a temp where the bullets come out with sharp grooves and wrinkle free. If they come out frosty, just tweak the temp down.

[mazo kid]

Oh, and I also had a Sharps percussion carbine; got it in the early 80s. It was a Sile and cost a whopping $240.00. I'll pass out Kleenex now.

[Powder Burn]

With big bullets like .58 minies it's hard to get a temp that's just right. A thermometer might help with that. Mine are always frosted or wrinkled. I'd rather have them frosted.

That's where I have the trouble too Hawg. When casting the .54 cal bullets for my Sharps. They come out frosty and few are wrinkled. I throw the wrinkled ones back in the pot. But they come out that way, no matter how I set the temp.

You have a Sharps ? I am so jealous. You're my hero. I keep telling myself," someday".

Thanks for sharing the video. My friend built one for his Lee pot and he really likes it's function and it works very well. I have just been to lazy to try and build a PID controller and rounding up all the parts to build one was beginning to be a bit of a hassle when I was contemplating on going that route. I just went back to using my thermometer which is constantly in the Lee pot and a quick glance while I am casting lets me know where I am at. I do have to keep on my toes though, as the lead melt starts getting lower in the pot because that is when the temperature really wants to take off and rise.

[mazo kid]

Temperature and casting tempo go hand in hand. Brass and iron molds stay hot longer than aluminum ones. There is a guy on the CastBoolits forum that builds and sells PIDs, maybe there is a "sticky", can't remember.  I guess if you want ultimate consistency, then a PID would be in order.

[Hawg]

My .58 mold is an old steel Lyman. My Sharps mold was an aluminum Moose Mold. They both made either frosted or wrinkled bullets. I just said to hell with it let them be frosted. Once they're dipped you can't tell it anyway. Dave, it was a nice rifle with beautiful case colors and was very accurate as well. I just get tired of making paper cartridges. I shot it a lot the first 6 months or so I had it and then didn't shoot it much after that. When I needed money to fund something else it was first on the list to go. I would love to have another Sharps but if I ever get another one it will be a 74.

[Powder Burn]

I have two types of molds, aluminum and iron. I do find that I like casting with my iron molds more because they do keep up with the temperature for good bullet casting and I don't have to get in a hurry with them. I have a different tempo for my aluminum molds but with both types, it doesn't take long to fall into a groove. I also have my hot plate handy to place my molds on for when I want a little break or to fix a drip. Anymore though, by the time I get through one or two pots, I'm done and have enough bullets to keep me in fun for awhile.

[ssb73q]

Hi, the Frankford Arsenal Drop Out spray helps casting at lower temperatures. The mold fills and the finish is a bright shine. This is a link to discussion of the Frankford Arsenal Drop Out:

https://blackpowdersmoke.com/colt/index.php/topic,3038.msg30938.html#msg30938

I highly recommend it, especially for a new mold. One small can will outlast a lifetime of your casting needs.

Regards,
Richard

[Powder Burn]

Hi, the Frankford Arsenal Drop Out spray helps casting at lower temperatures. The mold fills and the finish is a bright shine. This is a link to discussion of the Frankford Arsenal Drop Out:

https://blackpowdersmoke.com/colt/index.php/topic,3038.msg30938.html#msg30938

I highly recommend it, especially for a new mold. One small can will outlast a lifetime of your casting needs.

Regards,
Richard

Mine has lasted me about 20 years or so. I haven't even used it yet. After reading what you said, I might have to give it a try the next time but so far,knock on wood, my bullets are pretty.

[mazo kid]

As far as I know, the drop-out spray is graphite, and it only takes a very quick, light spray. I stopped using it about 20 years ago, and only used it on aluminum molds. The can is still nearly full. Your usage may vary from mine; I smoke the aluminum molds every so often. I know some say that isn't necessary too. More than one way to skin a cat. Do what works for you!

[Powder Burn]

I think it might have been over at Castboolits that I read where some even coat their mold cavities in Kroil then start casting. I coat my molds in Kroil for storage but then I spray with brake cleaner before casting.

[Hawg]

I think it might have been over at Castboolits that I read where some even coat their mold cavities in Kroil then start casting. I coat my molds in Kroil for storage but then I spray with brake cleaner before casting.

It wasn't Kroil but I sprayed a mold that was getting stiff because I hadn't used it in years with WD-40. I didn't think too much of getting it inside the cavity but it wouldn't cast a good bullet until I cleaned it out with carb cleaner.