Thinking of this for a project

[ssb73q]

Hi, I happen to notice that Dixie Gun Works has the brass framed .36 1851 for a good price, $185:

https://www.dixiegunworks.com/index/page/product/product_id/8675/category_id/321/product_name/SSB204+1851+NAVY+BRASS+FRAME+REVOLVER

I am thinking of getting that revolver, strip off all the bluing, defarb and polish the metal parts, and then nitre bluing the steel parts. Since I now have nitre salts in a long stainless steel pan, nitre bluing the barrel should be an easy task. Of course the internals will be finely polished and tuned.

Would I shoot it? Not a chance, but will use it as a display sculpture eye candy revolver.

What do you think?

Regards,
Richard

[Mad Dog Stafford]

Go for it!

[sourdough]

Looks like a perfect candidate for a Schneider & Glassick!

[ShotgunDave]

Looks like a perfect candidate for a Schneider & Glassick!

I agree with Jim. Make it a high end S&G. Work your magic on the cylinder, like you did for your L&R. That would be a snazzy revolver!

[sourdough]

Dave,

According to the DGW link Richard provided, it has a smooth cylinder.

Jim

[ShotgunDave]

Dave,

According to the DGW link Richard provided, it has a smooth cylinder.

Jim

It sure does Jim. I better get my glasses checked.

[sourdough]

Richard,

I think you may know my disdain for defarbed guns, but if done correctly with stamped indicators on the barrel under the load lever so as no one will confuse it with an original, I am good to go with that, but it's not my gun. I am guilty of Pietta 1851 Navy "type" guns parts changing to create guns that Pietta never marketed, which will confuse future owners as to their original "pedigree" if they look into it, but they all have the billboards and proofs so as not to confuse with an original.

I am looking forward to your new project. As you have much experience with nitre bluing, I am going to refer a gentleman on another forum to a thread about your Uberti L&R, if you don't mind. He is a bit of a noob, so please be gentle if he responds to you.

Kudos, Richard.

Regards,

Jim

[ssb73q]

Hi Jim, you gotta be kidding me on defarbing? The screws in Pietta revolvers are metric. I suspect there are other differences someone looking for an original would easily spot. Do you really think that someone would be fooled with a charcoal blued pristine revolver without Colt markings? The first thing I would think of is "kit". However, I do support leaving proof markings and only remove the Pietta BS.

I'm always happy to help newbies and answer questions.

Regards,
Richard

[sourdough]

Do you really think that someone would be fooled with a charcoal blued pristine revolver without Colt markings? The first thing I would think of is "kit". However, I do support leaving proof markings and only remove the Pietta BS.

Regards,
Richard

The Pietta revolver you are getting will be a Confederate brasser. The original S&G and G&G revolvers never had Colt markings.

Regards,

Jim

[ssb73q]

Hi Jim, thank you. If I ever see "Colt" stamped on a Schneider & Glassick revolver I will know it's a fake.

The brass framed, plain cylinder, Pietta 1851 is due to arrive today. I already have one of those on display as a Schneider & Glassick in my living room. Looking at that revolver shows that the Pietta markings that will be removed are on both sides of the barrel. Other than polishing, the tops and bottom of the barrel can be left alone. The barrel marking will be removed either by filing or sanding. I was thinking of burnishing the markings out, but was concerned that the burnished area may nitre blue differently than the other areas of the barrel.

Regards,
Richard

[Hawg]

Do you really think that someone would be fooled with a charcoal blued pristine revolver without Colt markings? The first thing I would think of is "kit". However, I do support leaving proof markings and only remove the Pietta BS.

Regards,
Richard

The Pietta revolver you are getting will be a Confederate brasser. The original S&G and G&G revolvers never had Colt markings.

Maybe that's because they weren't made by Colt.

Hi Jim, thank you. If I ever see "Colt" stamped on a Schneider & Glassick revolver I will know it's a fake.

With only three known to exist if you do see one it will most likely be a fake.

[G Dog]

Smooth .36 cylinders are at a premium.  I’ll bet some guys get it just for that cylinder and use it on their Leggo L&R’s. 

It’s good to see it in the real .36 version.  I have grown weary of the brass never-never .44 (heretical abomination) that Cabellas keeps pushing.

[sourdough]

Smooth .36 cylinders are at a premium.  I’ll bet some guys get it just for that cylinder and use it on their Leggo L&R’s. 

It’s good to see it in the real .36 version.  I have grown weary of the brass never-never .44 (heretical abomination) that Cabellas keeps pushing.

Or G&G's with the part round/part octagonal barrel. Just the plain cylinder is worth about $100 at VTI or Taylor's. I bought one from a kind soul on some forum a few years ago (used Pietta in the original box) to create a 12-stop-slot cylinder and he only wanted about $25 for it. I doubt that will ever happen again looking at the outrageous prices these days.

Cabela's these days is under the watchful eye of BPS and sales will most likely be non-existent. Not like the old days a few years ago.

Regards,

Jim

[ssb73q]

Hi, the Pietta brass framed .36 revolver arrived yesterday. Opened the box today to find a perfectly made brass 1851 with plain cylinder. The fit and finish is outstanding, as is the timing. The barrel  and cylinder are nicely deep black blued, it seems a shame to strip that bluing, but a niter project is the intent. The wood grip has amazing figure if released from that Pietta red mud finish. That grip is an excellent candidate for Tru-oil finish after the red stain is removed. As I did with nitre bluing the Pedersoli shotgun metal parts, I will hold off on nitre bluing the screws for a later date. Only the barrel and cylinder will be nitre blued in this pass.

Of course the action will be polished and a Wolff reduced power spring installed.

This should be a fun project.

Regards,
Richard

[ssb73q]

Hi, the revolver has been disassembled and the Pietta oil cleaned off using paint thinner. The barrel and cylinder were soaked in vinegar for a half hour to remove the bluing. Those parts were then coated with Ballistol to prevent rust. The next step is to remove the Pietta markings, but I'm letting Jim get into my head and wondering if I should leave all the markings alone and just nitre blue the barrel and cylinder after polishing with a buffing wheel.

What do you think, remove the Pietta markings or leave them alone?

Regards,
Richard