Arbor Envy. Or "How to fix your short arbor"

[ShotgunDave]

Me too Capt. I'd like to see Richard's way of doing it as well as Mazo's. Or if anyone else has their own way, I'd love to see that too.

There's always more than one way to skin a cat. Maybe some guys are afraid to use a torch, or maybe some are afraid to take a drill to their gun. It's always good to have options.

[DragoonRick]

  I have no experience with the arbor issue until I’ve learned about it on this forum.  I have two #2 ASM dragoon revolvers I decided to check the arbor length.  The arbor length is 1/4 inch +. Less than the depth of the arbor hole. Shims might not fix this but soldering a steel or brass spacer on the arbor might work.  Two other ideas I’ve had are to 1. To drop a piece of oak dowel in the arbor hole to wedge against the arbor when the gun is assembled. And 2. Drop few turns of heavy coil spring in th arbor hole for the arbor to push against. 

Thanks for reading .  I’ll continue to read instructions and advise here.
Dragoon Rick.

[Marshal Will]

Outstanding tutorial, Dave. This method is what I use (because you described your method to me). The only difference is I like aircraft AN washers rather than cutting a shim and trying to get it right. The solder will flow up the center of a washer nicely. I always start a little thicker washer than needed and dress it down with sandpaper to the correct amount after it's attached.

You didn't mention what kind of solder you use. Am I to assume it is soft solder, not silver solder? I can't imagine silver solder flowing as quickly as you described. Not even Brownell's Hi-Force 44 solder.

[45 Dragoon]

I will point out that JB is used just to maintain position.  There is metal to metal contact at all times between the spacer and bottom of the arbor hole.  JB obviously flows into any voids but a ring of contact is present which is why I use a "pan head"  ( rounded) screw head as the contact surface for the bottom of the hole. I add two "started" holes ( one on each side of the arbor hole where it transitions to a cone shape from the end of the drill bit. These "semi-holes" anchor the spacer should any of the JB fail.

 It, by the way, can be drilled out.  Can't for the life of me figure why a too short arbor would be preferred over a "corrected " arbor fit .  .  .  As far as I know, I haven't had any failures. I'm not saying Shotgun Dave's  isn't good, ( it is) mine is just quicker for me.
 I just did a pair of "Tame Bill's" that had been done with a brass button (i.e. Pettifoggers article). I had done some cap guns for him and he said my fix was superior with the s.s. setup.
 No matter what method is used,  it's good as long as it works.

Mike

[ShotgunDave]

I apologize for my tardiness and lack of participation lately. I've been extremely busy with slot car stuff as of late.

Rick, you're on the right track by soldering something on the end of the arbor to fix the shortness. But a spring or piece of wood, in my opinion, won't fix anything.

Marshal, I used plain old 60/40 solder to attach the shim. I haven't had one fail yet.

[Marshal Will]

Marshal, I used plain old 60/40 solder to attach the shim. I haven't had one fail yet.

That makes sense. It won't separate because the temperature would be below the melting point no matter how much you run through it.

[DragoonRick]

Shotgun,

   Thanks for the comment.  I put a couple of split washers in the arbor hole th see how they fit.  It seems very solid..  I’ll either JB them in the file or solider them in a stack to the arbor then file to a proper diameter.  Right now I see that here fit in the arbor hole.  The hole in the washer lines up the arbor.

[45 Dragoon]

Split washers are no good ( especiallyin a Dragoon!!). They're a single coil spring  .  .  . likewise a spring isn't either.  The design calls for a SOLID connection to the barrel assembly .  .  .  with tension . When fired,  the force transfer throughout the revolver must be instantaneous, not through a spring or two.  JB  or any adhesive "between" shims in a stack of shims will compress ( no matter how thin a film it is) and close down the desired clearance.  For that reason,  a single spacer or solid structure ( weld or soldered) is the best "fix".

Mike