Killing quarantine time on my 1860s

[mazo kid]

I'm watching this too!

[Ace]

Thanks for the info and pictures, will definitely help. Before the weekend is out, might have Cap rakes and hammer stops in both pistols. Any opinion on honing chambers, of chamfering the barrel? I want these to be more accurate than myself, and it seems to be another good option. I normally shoot .454 round ball. I’m thinking a consistent chamber size and smooth transition from chamber to barrel sure couldn’t hurt, but is it necessary? To be fair, they are probably more accurate than my eyes to begin with hahaha

[Hawg]

Thanks for the info and pictures, will definitely help. Before the weekend is out, might have Cap rakes and hammer stops in both pistols. Any opinion on honing chambers, of chamfering the barrel? I want these to be more accurate than myself, and it seems to be another good option. I normally shoot .454 round ball. I’m thinking a consistent chamber size and smooth transition from chamber to barrel sure couldn’t hurt, but is it necessary? To be fair, they are probably more accurate than my eyes to begin with hahaha

If you're going to ream the chambers anyway you would be better served to ream them out to take .457 balls and cutting the forcing cone to 11 degrees would help also.

[ShotgunDave]

I personally have never done anything to the chambers on my guns, so I really have no real world experience. My guns already shoot more accurately than I do, so I've never gone that extra mile. I'm more interested in reliability than wringing MOA accuracy from my guns.

[mazo kid]

I have never reamed any cylinder chambers, but am considering champhering the entrance. I have crowned the muzzles and cut forcing cones to 11*.

[Hawg]

I personally have never done anything to the chambers on my guns, so I really have no real world experience. My guns already shoot more accurately than I do, so I've never gone that extra mile. I'm more interested in reliability than wringing MOA accuracy from my guns.

I've never done anything to any of mine other than a little smoothing here and there and correcting arbor length on Uberti Colt's. Mine are usually good enough for me straight out of the box. I don't see the need for cap rakes and bolt blocks etc. If Col. Colt wanted them in there he would have put them there.

[ssb73q]

Hi Dave, if you put the hammer stop screw hole all the way through the trigger guard you could adjust the hammer stop from outside the gun with the grips on?

Regards,
Richard

[45 Dragoon]

Hi Dave, if you put the hammer stop screw hole all the way through the trigger guard you could adjust the hammer stop from outside the gun with the grips on?

Regards,
Richard

This is true but if you want to use the revolver for CAS shooting, you can't.

Even though it's  "adjustable",  you should only have to set it one time. The other times you'll need the "adjustable-ness" is if you change the trigger or the hammer. These items will probably change the "length of cycle". Also, changing the mainspring will introduce a different thicknesses and/ or angle which will need adjusting.

 Otherwise, you'll always have an extra hole in your gun  that everybody can see. Hiding the stop gives " mystery " to the awesome feeling of "precision"  that it imparts (even when you know it's there!!).
  Of course it's your gun, your decision.  (I'm sure my customers wouldn't be happy with an extra hole in their revolver)

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

[ShotgunDave]

Hi Dave, if you put the hammer stop screw hole all the way through the trigger guard you could adjust the hammer stop from outside the gun with the grips on?

Regards,
Richard

Sorry for my tardiness in answering Richard. Mike pretty much nailed it. You could drill clean through, and adjust from outside the gun. But like Mike said, it's really not necessary. It's pretty much a set it and forget it kinda thing, unless you make other changes inside the gun. And then, you'd be inside the gun anyway, and could adjust it right there.

I know for a lot of guys, owning these guns is "until death do us part", so a hole drilled in it wouldn't matter. But there are those that do part with them, so a hole drilled in it would probably not be appealing to a potential buyer.

[Hawg]

, so a hole drilled in it would probably not be appealing to a potential buyer.

Nor to a purist.

[sourdough]

Nor to a purist.

Absolutely. This from a guy who ignores Pietta billboards but everything else must be as historical as possible.

No 8" barrels on Pietta 1861 Navies, no Pietta 1861 Navy 4-screw revolvers CFS without the backstrap attachment aperture, no Pietta 1851 Navy shoulder stocks for a Navy 3-screw revolvers using a 2-headed hammer screw, no Pietta 1862 Pocket Navy .36 which is only based on a short-barreled Navy frame, no Pietta Dance .44 (modern production), no Pietta Pepperbox .36, et al.

This from a guy who has 8 different Pietta 1851 Navy "type" revolvers, mostly built using Pietta parts from VTI and Taylor's.

I want a new project: a Pietta 1851 Navy Dragoon .36 using a slightly cut down/shortened cylinder from a Pietta Pepperbox and modifying the barrel lug and forcing cone to fit. I have been in contact with Gary Barnes  http://www.cartridgeconversion.com/ and he thinks it is feasible. It won't be historical by any stretch of the imagination, but it will most likely be one of a kind. Stimulus checks will be here soon and I may be adding to the economy a bit doing this. If it comes to fruition I will start a new thread.

Regards,

Jim

[G Dog]

Welp - that sounds near to Steampunk.       Trad school, here.