My cap rakes so far...

[Ace]

Open to your opinions. I think it will be functional, but I do wish I had more tools to work with and could have threaded the hole to be more permanent and “ideal”. I am kind of a perfectionist, so I’m probably the most scrutinizing of my own work. The rake itself is a stainless steel finishing nail. The head of the nail was sanded to “fit”. It was dipped into JB weld before being hammered into place. Like I said, less than ideal, but probably 100% functional. And as seen I put SliXshot nipples on at the same time. Have not been able to go test it yet. So, before I get to doing the twin pistol, I ask your opinions. Happy Memorial Day to all

[Ace]

[ShotgunDave]

That looks mighty fine to me Ace!

[bigted]

Looks like good work to me as well. Anxious to hear your range report with the rake installed.

Did you have trouble before when shooting or is this strictly preventative?

Be interesting to hear your before and after tales.

Thanks for posting. Been kinda slow round these parts lately.

[ShotgunDave]

Quick question Ace. What did you do to the hammers? Did you make the safety slot a little deeper? Or did they go over the rake without modifying them?

[Ramsmoke]

Ace,
Pardon me for making this my first post but..........
That looks pretty dang good to me!
Hopefully you have shot your revolver by now and realized the results. I am a big proponent of the cap rake, especially for competition revolvers. Since finding SASS member Utah's post of the procedure on the now defunct Openrange website, I have used it to set up a dozen or so of Colt's reproduction open top percussion revolvers. Most are 1860s. The most recent pair are from Pietta. They are .36 caliber but known by various names,  depending on the importer: 1860 Army Sheriff 5.5" .36 Half Fluted, 1862 Police Sheriff steel frame, or as I like to call them 1861 Colt's. I digress.
I took them from their boxes strip cleaned and lubed them and off to the range. Disappointment. Could not get through one cylinder without jamming. Came home, tore down both guns, removed two caps from each gun's works, installed cap rakes, back to the range. Success! 40 rounds each gun, no stoppages.
I am a believer. This procedure may not be cared for or condoned by everyone but it has worked for me.
Ace, here's hoping for the best results for you.
Ramsmoke

[Captainkirk]

Look good to me! I had Goon install a couple cap rakes on a few of my guns. They work great.

[G Dog]

… a couple cap rakes on a few of my guns. They work great.

So, a few of your guns have a couple of rakes?

( Sorry Captain, couldn’t help myself. )


Looking good, there Ace.

[Ace]

Thanks for all the kind words ladies and gents..

To answer a couple questions, the work was only preventive. If you had looked at my previous post with my 1860s, I polished the hammers to a “mirror” polish(best I could anyways) and didn’t seem to have much problems with that. Seemed to pull the caps much less. But I wanted them to be as fool proof I can make them.

I did have to notch the hammer. More than I really like. I may try to refine it with one of my spare hammers on this gun. I used a very small(smallest I could find actually) carbide bit on a Dremel. Just one part got a tiny bit high. And it’s bothering my perfectionist side 

I am hoping to begin on the twin soon, shouldn’t be too terrible. Just going my work improves with every one that I do. It’s only shade tree work. But if it’s an improvement than it wasn’t a waste of time

[Captainkirk]

… a couple cap rakes on a few of my guns. They work great.

So, a few of your guns have a couple of rakes?

( Sorry Captain, couldn’t help myself. )


Looking good, there Ace.

Well, I couldn't very well install one rake on more than one gun, could I? 

[45 Dragoon]

   Yap, experience is a good teacher!! Keep at it!

 Thanks for the mention Cap.!!!

Mike

www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @goonsgunworks

[Ace]

Well, a little update...

 I consider my cap rakes a failure. Maybe if I’d silver solder in the rake it could be saved. But the jb weld, in my opinion, is just to weak on such a small surface area. Given weeks to cure, a bump with a screwdriver popped each pin out of place, which is unacceptable to me. If I were cleaning and dropped it or by chance something like a brush or pick hit it, or any other unfathomable reasons they had a bit of pressure put on them, and they fall out, that’s not competition worthy(or worse case scenario, life saving). Goon, I may be in touch to see if they are salvageable. If not oh well, I figure I will fill the holes drilled with solder or jb and use them as enjoyable family shooters.

[ShotgunDave]

Ace, how big of a hole did you drill in the frame? If not too big, you can tap the hole and thread a screw in with Loc-Tite on it. Cut the screw off to the desired height, and file the sides flat. It's really simple and works great.

I've never been an advocate of J-B Weld on guns. I know many people have spectacular results with it, and that's great for them. I just have an aversion to using glue on guns.

[mazo kid]

Just my opinion, but I don't see much difference between Lok-Tite and JB Weld. Both are used to secure a part in position.

[Ace]

The bit I used was 5/64”. I’m looking at #2 machine screw taps now. I always thought that would be better.

Loctite is different because it will only be keeping the threads for turning back out, instead of holding the entire pin in position. The threads are much stronger. And red loctite will keep the pin from spinning out very well...