Walker wedge too small??

[Captainkirk]

So, I've hit a snag. I stripped it down to the frame and went to back the set screw out to properly address the arbor situation. Can't get the screw out. It won't even budge a bit. Should I apply heat? Drill it out? Thoughts, gents?

I'm guessing the used LocTite. Which grade, we can only guess?
Try using a heat gun, NOT a live flame. Blue or red Loctite should loosen up with heat applied. A flame may take the temper out of the steel.

[45 Dragoon]

You can try some heat but I'd probably try drilling it out. Use a carbide bit .  .  . 
  Sometimes folks will ask if I put set screws in instead of pins .  .  .  no. This is one of the reasons why. Seems like a good idea till it's not  .  .  .  lol!!!  It'll be OK .  .  .
When  done though, I'd use a pin (soft steel) you can drill out if needed. Pins do a better job anyway I think.

Mike

[Woodsrunner79]

Figured it was time for an update.

I pumped the breaks on this project till Rifle season was over. Took the arbor off and as far as I can tell if I'm going to set the arbor any further back I'll need to take it to a machine shop and have the shoulder turned down a scootch. Then upon re installation it should take up the excess gap in the wedge slot and take away the "slop" in the side to side movement. Am I missing anything?

[Zulch]

Figured it was time for an update.

I pumped the breaks on this project till Rifle season was over. Took the arbor off and as far as I can tell if I'm going to set the arbor any further back I'll need to take it to a machine shop and have the shoulder turned down a scootch. Then upon re installation it should take up the excess gap in the wedge slot and take away the "slop" in the side to side movement. Am I missing anything?

Woodsrunner79, Morning. The following is meant with deep respect. I'm not the resident expert here.  Did you solve the loose arbor issue mentioned earlier? If the loose arbor issue was corrected then to me the next step would be to do the test that Mike had mentioned earlier by making sure the arbor isn't too short. If it is too short then the gap would need to close between the arbor and wedge which to me would mean that the arbor needs to be forward by adding a washer and or a screw to the arbor? Mike, please excuse me if I am amiss here. I too, am trying to understand an find this very interesting. Respectfully, Tim

[Captainkirk]

If the arbor wasn't short before (it was) it definitely will be now. Plan accordingly.

[ShotgunDave]

Like Zulch, I don't want to step on Mike's territory. He's the expert in this stuff. But it sounds relatively straight forward to me. First, fix the loose arbor. Disrupt the shoulder on it and re-intall it. Once that is fixed, address the short arbor. Like Capt said, it is short. They all are. Once that has been remedied, figure out the slot issue. You may have to open up the slot on one end or the other to make the wedge work properly. After all this, you should have a very good functioning pistol.

[Woodsrunner79]

Zulch- See this is why I ask questions.

Yes. The arbor looseness issue is corrected. But I still have a gap
around the  wedge. I either need to add material to the arbor and take up the gap that way or have a custom sized wedge made.

[Zulch]

Zulch- See this is why I ask questions.

Yes. The arbor looseness issue is corrected. But I still have a gap
around the  wedge. I either need to add material to the arbor and take up the gap that way or have a custom sized wedge made.

      Woodsrunner79, Great about the arbor looseness issue being addressed and fixed. Regarding the shortness of the arbor. Now drop a thin washer into the arbor receiving hole,  maybe a (5mm, my suggestion) washer and assemble back together. See if that helps the slop. I personally have never repaired a short arbor by lengthening the arbor myself. In my humble opinion, the washer is really just needed to determine if the arbor is short. It is not meant to be a fix, if that makes sense? It sounds like we already know the arbor is short? Correct me if I'm wrong please.
    A real gunsmith like Mike should make the proper repair to the arbor and fine tuning actually needed to make a good and solid revolver. I am glad you ask questions :-) all of us are always learning new things and that is cool to me. Ask anything you want to ask. Questions are always welcome. I still ask questions all the time. LOL.  Thanks, Tim

[Hawg]

Zulch- See this is why I ask questions.

Yes. The arbor looseness issue is corrected. But I still have a gap
around the  wedge. I either need to add material to the arbor and take up the gap that way or have a custom sized wedge made.

Do the edges of the wedge hole in the arbor line up with the wedge hole in the barrel lug on both sides?

[Woodsrunner79]

Hawg-No, the arbor slot sits back from the slot in the barrel still. Which, would make sense if the arbor is still short.

[Hawg]

Hawg-No, the arbor slot sits back from the slot in the barrel still. Which, would make sense if the arbor is still short.

Goon will know for sure but I think you're going to have to open up the slot in the arbor to match the front of the wedge hole in the barrel lug. I don't think the opening behind the wedge will make any difference. You still have to correct the arbor length where it goes into the barrel lug with washers or shims.

[45 Dragoon]

Thanks Hawger!!
   Yes, the slot in the barrel will /should let you see the forward end of the arbor slot with the rear of the arbor slot further back than the slot in the barrel.  So, the wedge pushes against the front of the Arbor slot and the rear of the Barrel slot. This is how the tension created with the wedge keeps the barrel assy tight against the end of the arbor.  I've never said it this way before but,  the barrel assy being pulled back against the arbor  is what keeps the arbor from being stressed.

This is what happens when there IS space ( no support)  at the end of the arbor.  (Thanks to Tar heel for the pic)

So, how was the "loose arbor" fixed in your (Woodsrunner79) Walker .  .  .  it should have  been really torqued in place  and pinned with barrel in place. If not, it is fine I'm sure like it is .  .   . the length needs to be addressed now which means a spacer (shims are the "last resort" in the case of horse pistols) to fill in the too deep arbor hole.

Mike

[45 Dragoon]

Ok, I screwed my last post up badly!!! With just one word!!!!!  So I fixed it .  .  .  please read again (it should actually make sense now!!!).

By the way, I reread this page and I just want to make sure Woodsrunner79 understands the "short arbor " problem that is talked so much about pertains to the end of the arbor not touching the bottom of the arbor hole. The picture above is the ultimate result of the short arbor problem.

Mike

[Woodsrunner79]

I think I get the short arbor issue. I upset the the shoulder of the arbor with a cold chisel and torqued it back in place. I haven't pinned it as of yet, as I just haven't made a pin yet(lazy me).
I'll address the short arbor issues with JB weld I think. Giving the arbor a surface to bear against. Then, reassemble and test. Mike, did I miss anything?

[Hawg]

I think I get the short arbor issue. I upset the the shoulder of the arbor with a cold chisel and torqued it back in place. I haven't pinned it as of yet, as I just haven't made a pin yet(lazy me).
I'll address the short arbor issues with JB weld I think. Giving the arbor a surface to bear against. Then, reassemble and test. Mike, did I miss anything?

You need something more substantial than JB Weld.