The Infamous Uberti (and others) Short Arbor

[Hawg]

Thanks for posting your tutorial Mike. Your way is much simpler, and doesn't involve a torch. I like it! I also like that you use the rounded end of the screw to bottom out in the hole. As we know, that hole isn't square at the bottom. It's concave. Using the round end of the screw head gives you much more contact area.

I agree Dave. Thanks for posting this Mike!

Thanks guys!!


 I've never had a problem with JB Weld but I have drilled out a SS spacer before and it surprised me at how tough it was !

 You are right Dave and that is exactly why I use those screw heads.
Tomorrow I'll show how I "fine tune" the endshake to get my final spec.

Mike

MIKE???. When is
tomorrow? I just noticed that you did not post about the "fine tune endshake"  Rip Van Winkle?? 

Yeah when is tomorrow Bubba? You got things to see, places to go and people to do?

[45 Dragoon]

 

 I hear ya (Y'ALL !!!)
  Ok, after you've got the spacer installed,  you should have a slightly larger endshake than you want to end up with.  It's easy if you have a sacrificial cylinder to use as a tool. I use an ASM Walker cylinder for Dragoons/ Walkers  and an ASM Navy  for all belt pistols.  With 220 grit sandpaper,  I stand the arbor in the appropriate cyl and sand the arbor  down by moving the cylinder on the paper ( and checking often)  until I get to my specific endshake - .002" max for cartridge,  .0025" - .003" for cap guns.

Doing it that way (shortening  the arbor a little more) will lengthen the wedge slot overall. That is where the set screw in the end of the arbor comes into play. Being able to "adjust" the slot length will allow you to keep your wedge and not have to buy an oversized wedge or make or have one made. 

 One thing I'll add is I would never use a set screw to be the correction of the arbor length.  What you're doing is reducing the "connection"  for the transmission of force to the diameter of the set screw. I'm not saying it's wrong if that's what you want to do,  it just doesn't make any sense to me to do it that way.

 I'll add some pictures. ( hopefully after this. They tend to go to the top of the post  which takes them out of "context ".

[Hawg]

Just hit your enter key a couple of times after your text and they will show up below it.

[45 Dragoon]

Ahhh .

Thanks Hawg!!

[Zulch]

 I hear ya (Y'ALL !!!)
  Ok, after you've got the spacer installed,  you should have a slightly larger endshake than you want to end up with.  It's easy if you have a sacrificial cylinder to use as a tool. I use an ASM Walker cylinder for Dragoons/ Walkers  and an ASM Navy  for all belt pistols.  With 220 grit sandpaper,  I stand the arbor in the appropriate cyl and sand the arbor  down by moving the cylinder on the paper ( and checking often)  until I get to my specific endshake - .002" max for cartridge,  .0025" - .003" for cap guns.

Doing it that way (shortening  the arbor a little more) will lengthen the wedge slot overall. That is where the set screw in the end of the arbor comes into play. Being able to "adjust" the slot length will allow you to keep your wedge and not have to buy an oversized wedge or make or have one made. 

 One thing I'll add is I would never use a set screw to be the correction of the arbor length.  What you're doing is reducing the "connection"  for the transmission of force to the diameter of the set screw. I'm not saying it's wrong if that's what you want to do,  it just doesn't make any sense to me to do it that way.

 I'll add some pictures. ( hopefully after this. They tend to go to the top of the post  which takes them out of "context ".

Thank you Mike. The pictures will certainly help tell the story.

[Zulch]

Well ….. we’re waiting.

[45 Dragoon]

Here ya go!!  2012 technology at it's finest!!!

[Zulch]

Thank you Mike. Would you mind hanging a few photos of an arbor with the adjustable set screw in place? I know I’m being a pain. I appreciate you Mike. Thanks Z

[45 Dragoon]

Absolutely! Thanks Z!

[Zulch]

Absolutely! Thanks Z!

Howdy Mike, Anxious to see the set screw in place in/on the arbor. Do you dress the set screw? phillips head? grind the head slightly flat but still able to practically adjust with a screwdriver? etc. Thanks, Tim

[45 Dragoon]

I thought I'd make some new pics today.  So in the mean time, here's a drawing showing WHY you don't want the set screw to be the "fix" for the length.
The top arbor gets reduced to just the size of the screw to transmit forces. The bottom arbor contacts the spacer with its full diameter.

[45 Dragoon]

Here's the end view of the set screw.
And the second pic is the Bearing side of the screw.

[Zulch]

Thank you Mike👍👍