Ahhh....the bolt.
It was pretty much a no-brainer; deciding to use the new bolt. The old one looked like it had been run over by heavy earth moving equipment-on concrete! One of the spring legs was broken off:
Anyway...junk.
So I checked the cylinder stop grooves for width:
Reading about .035 on this pic, but when held by hand, it was closer to .040
After measuring the bolt stop width, it was easy to see why there was a cylinder ring...the bolt width was around .050 (shown here around .055) (It tightens up a little when held instead of resting on the bench)
The theory here is the same as in the Pettifogger article; the cylinder rotates clockwise as viewed from the rear with the bolt offset to the right.
This means, as in the article, 1) you want to remove ONLY the material from the bolt that extends above the frame, and: 2) You ONLY want to remove material from the LOW side of the bevel (see picture)
Here is the bolt marked using permanent marker:
And here, after removing the material:
After altering, the bolt head is checked for fit in the cylinder slots (all the way; not just starting) As Pettifogger says, all that will do is give the cylinder a 'wedgie'....LOL!
I also blended the sharp, flat area of the spring leg where it rides up over the hammer cam. Everything needs to be a smooth, polished transition.
I decided to re-use the original trigger, as the 'smith previous had done a bang-up job of polishing the show surface, and I had spent almost half an hour polishing the bearing surface on it.
At this time, I decided to polish the area on the mainspring where the hammer roller rides:
Before:
After:
Same procedure as the hammer; 180 followed by 320, 600, the finally ScotchBrite. Shines like a mirror!
After deburring and hand polishing everything, I did a trial assembly (ok, maybe like 25-50 trial assemblies) and found:
1) The hammer goes to full cock and releases just like it should
2) The bolt head drops into the frame just as it should, and pops up to lock the cylinder at full cock; just as it should. However, a trial assembly with the cylinder shows the timing is off; the hand wants to push the cylinder a little past the stop bolt, causing it to miss lockup in one or two positions on occasion.
Next up; trimming the hand assembly.