Difference between Pietta and Uberti 1862??

[45 Dragoon]

I understand your situation, but if the other option was to shorten the cylinders, I think a little off the arbor is a non issue and is ultimately (for me) the best option.

Its funny to me that "fixing" a "not right" open top will cause people to avoid doing certain things as if it may detract some perceived value. This isn't "new ground" and I'm certain that as strong as JB is, it will not hold up by itself. It WILL hold steel shims in place against a  steel structure and is a good bedding medium. I'm not trying to argue, its just something I deal with daily. 
  Just trying to help you from plowing already plowed ground.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

[ssb73q]

Hi Mike, shortening the cylinders would screw up perfect cylinder/barrel gaps on my other three 1851 revolvers. The only good choice other than dedicating one conversion cylinder to the 1862 is to fix the arbor length.

Last night I tested the JB Weld only on the arbor, it was too thin. I removed the JB Weld and then JB welded a thin brass washer. This morning I filed down the washer to where I could almost see the JB Weld through the washer ( ) and assembled the gun. I now have a Pietta 1862 (really an 1861) with a 0.002" gap. Whether it will hold up is questionable where only time will tell.

BTW, the arbor end to slot is not very thick were drilling and tapping a hole wouldn't be prudent. It may be better to put the tapped hole in the barrel end, but then I am concerned about interference with the loading lever, the barrel is only 5.5" thick.

Bottom line is that I hope the JB Weld/brass washer lasts.

Regards,
Richard

[45 Dragoon]

Well Richard, it probably won't. A really thin (almost can see through) soft brass (not steel - like you agreed) washer won't offer much support against the bottom of a hole that's not flat. That's another reason I like to put everything in the hole (it fills the void), not on the arbor.

I don't understand why you would tap a hole in the barrel end ? That makes absolutely no sense regarding my reason for a taped hole in the arbor (hint, it has nothing to do with correcting the arbor length). You obviously don't understand what I do that for. I've explained it many times.

It seems like my suggestions fall on deaf ears so I'll step aside and not waste my (and yours) time. You're going to do it your way no matter what anybody says as it seems others experience has no weight with you. Besides, I've got about 25 or so revolvers to fix so I'm busy.
 Good luck.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

[ssb73q]

Hi Mike, maybe you didn't make yourself clear to me on adding a 1/4" set screw on the end of the arbor? Did I even get that right?

How about a picture on what it looks like. Maybe I can then understand you better? Maybe you didn't understand me?

IMO, blowing me off isn't a useful path to quality business practices.

Communication is always a bitch.

Regards,
Richard

[ssb73q]

Hi, if the JB Weld doesn't hold up, I thought of a more elegant way to add a couple of thousands to the end of the arbor. I have some pure nickel and would only need to get some nickel salts to be able to plate the end of the arbor with nickel. A couple of thousands of nickel plating should only take a minute or two. I should be able to find a steel rod the width of the arbor to calibrate nickel thickness as a function of time and current. Yeah, this is the way to go.

Regards,
Richard 

[45 Dragoon]

OK Richard ( I'm a softy),
  That sounds a whole lot easier (NOT) to do than to just JB some STEEL shim material in the bottom of the arbor hole and dress the arbor to zero in your bbl/cyl clearance (heck, you might get lucky and not have to dress any of ff the arbor!).  The end result would be a solid, steel bottom for the arbor to contact.

The 1/4" set screw is what the wedge will push against (instead of the forward part of the arbor slot). It is screwed in from the front of the arbor (where you're wanting to put material). This gives you an adjustable arbor point (rather than the fixed one) for the wedge to bear against. It also allows you to locate the wedge to a desired depth and maintain that location. For instance, if your left hand revolvers wedge hangs up on the holster, you can bring the wedge in closer so it will clear the holster. I like mine at least half way in just for looks and no holster issues.

Here is a pic.


Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

[ssb73q]

Hi Mike, now I understand!! I had thought you were bearing the set screw against the barrel.

Yes indeed, a photo is worth a thousand words.

Thanks for the reply.

Regards,
Richard