Colt Country | Home of The Almighty Colt
Black Powder Pistols => Walkers & Dragoons => Topic started by: ssb73q on December 27, 2015, 06:36:36 AM
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Hi, while waiting for my Uberti 1847 Walker I have been watching the movie The Outlaw Josey Wales. Although not considered a belt handgun, Clint Eastwood seemed to easily carry them.
Are there any other period movies that feature the Walker?
I understand that the original Walkers had the cylinder in the white. I wonder why the repos blue their Walker cylinder?
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, I found a nice reference on Walker movies:
http://www.imfdb.org/wiki/Colt_Walker
Regards,
Richard
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I believe the TV series Hell on Wheels featured a Walker. Not really sure though since I have never seen any of it.
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Don't remember a Walker in Hell On Wheels. The show featured a G&G which was really a brass 1860.
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I love my Walker! L@.
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...
Hi, while waiting for my Uberti 1847 Walker I have been watching the movie The Outlaw Josey Wales. Although not considered a belt handgun, Clint Eastwood seemed to easily carry them...
Hi Richard,
He carried them easily because, [multiple choice]
a) It was written by the screenwriters.
b) They were worn only for a matter of minutes for the screen shots.
c) They may or may not have actually been made of metal.
d) They may or may not have been just enough of the grip frame to appear correct.
...I understand that the original Walkers had the cylinder in the white. I wonder why the repos blue their Walker cylinder?
Regards,
Richard...
Just the way they do things.
Merry Christmas.
Kevin
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Don't remember a Walker in Hell On Wheels. The show featured a G&G which was really a brass 1860.
OK, maybe not, Longmire maybe. Just have heard the talk. I don't have cable and don't watch TV or movies much. I'll stick to topics I'm more familiar with.
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Not Longmire either. That's a modern day show altho there was an 1858 Remington on a desk that got used as a club once.
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Strawhat,
The correct answer is "all of the above". I have seen Clint in person. He is a tall skinny guy. Lugging around a Walker all day would have worn him out. :-* 8)
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Why are you waiting for your Walker?
Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
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Hi Mike, I ordered a Walker from Cabelas a few days ago, due to arrive on Tuesday. I will order a Howell .45 Colt conversion cylinder for it soon.
Regards,
Richard
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Ahh! Worth the wait!!
Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
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Hi, just one more day of waiting until I can affect the earths magnetic field around my house. While waiting, research shows that Sam Colt documented his correspondence with Walker in a book that's out of print, but available. I bought a copy like this one on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sam-Colts-Own-Record-1847-Paperback-Reprint-June-1992-/331646129628?hash=item4d37a655dc:g:3VgAAOSwHnFV6b7g
This should provide some good background on the Walker and be an interesting read.
Regards,
Richard
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Gus McCray (Robert Duval), carried a Walker in the series "Lonesome Dove", It was a conversion to cartridges.
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Hi, I ordered the Howell 6-shot .45 Colt conversion cylinder for my Walker. The .45 BPM looks like an interesting cartridge for it, see:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/.45_Black_Powder_Magnum .
The downside is that 460 S&W brass is expensive and I would need to buy new dies. This will go on my future projects list.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, today is the day, the Walker is on the UPS truck out for delivery today. The .45 Colt conversion cylinder is due to arrive Thursday.
Last night we watched True Grit, the night before The Outlaw Josey Wales.
When I get the Walker I will post some photos and initial impressions.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, guess what just came in the door, my new Uberti 1847 Walker! These Uberti's just seem to be getting better and better. The fit, timing, and finish is perfect. The wood stock is excellent with a nice figure. I measured the barrel/cylinder gap, my 0.0015" feeler won't go in, the gap is smaller, but the gun cycles fine.
It is sure one brute of a handgun! I either broke or injured some ribs in a fall a few days ago and holding up this revolver is currently a chore. The .45 Colt conversion cylinder is due to arrive on Thursday and I can't wait to shoot this monster.
Ain't she pretty:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Walker_zpsifl1fsl6.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Walker_zpsifl1fsl6.jpg.html)
Regards,
Richard
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Very nice Richard. The grips looks great.
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Beautiful!
Ya know, one photo ain't gonna cut it on this forum. Just sayin'.......
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She's a beaut Richard. Uberti has stepped up their game for sure. The insides of my Dragoon is the cleanest I've ever seen on a repro but Uberti is still slacking on arbor length.
(http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y269/rebel727/Dragoon/100_4863_zpspka7nmcq.jpg) (http://s7.photobucket.com/user/rebel727/media/Dragoon/100_4863_zpspka7nmcq.jpg.html)
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Hi, I went down to the basement and cleaned all the preservation oil off the Walker. The insides was very clean, almost polished. I was surprised when passing a cloth patch through the bore, the rifling is left handed. Inspection of the arbor length to barrel arbor hole length shows that the revolver is using the wedge to set the gap, a Uberti thing. I saw a reference today where Colt properly set the barrel/cylinder gap by setting the correct arbor length. I will use the epoxy attached brass washer to arbor end technique to set the gap properly. I did that mod for my two Uberti 1849s and 1862. The barrel wedge of the Walker sets the gap at <0.0015" with the narrow edge of the wedge flush with the side of the barrel. I would like to have more purchase for the wedge. Instead of taking a file to the original wedge, I ordered a new one from VTI to bugger.
I'm still very impressed with the heft of the Walker. I may use it for a weight when exercising in the morning on my treadmill. )lI )lI
Regards,
Richard
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I have an Uberti Walker, new in the box. It is an older gun; now you have me thinking.....I will have to get it out and check it over again. I cleaned it a bit after I got it from the widow of a friend and put it in the safe. Nice that you got a conversion cylinder for it too.
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Richard, very nice one. L@.
I haven't taken it all apart to SEE inside it yet.
They sure do oil them up real good in that plastic bag. L@.
Richard, what is the date of your Walker?
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Hi Sam, the date code is CN, SN D135XX
Regards,
Richard
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CN is what year?
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2015 Sam
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Hi, by stacking washers, I determined how much longer my Walker arbor should be to produce a 0.002" barrel/cylinder gap independent of wedge force, 0.100". I could just epoxy three 1/2" OD brass washers together on the arbor end, but will turn a 1/2" brass rod to the correct length. That part will then be JB Weld to the Walker arbor end. A little narrowing of the barrel wedge may also be required to produce a good wedge purchase.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, the new Howell Uberti 1847 Walker .45 Colt conversion cylinder just came in the door. It dropped right in and works perfectly in my new Walker 1847. As soon as I get a new barrel wedge it will be tested. Yes, I buggered up my Walker wedge, took off too much metal from the wedge in the interest of more wedge purchase. The only purchase now realized is buying new wedges (two on order, one from VTI and the other from eBay). Gunsmithing can be expensive. *6' *6' *6'
I ordered this conversion cylinder from Old South Firearms just three days ago, thank you Old South for such fast shipping!
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, by stacking washers, I determined how much longer my Walker arbor should be to produce a 0.002" barrel/cylinder gap independent of wedge force, 0.100". I could just epoxy three 1/2" OD brass washers together on the arbor end, but will turn a 1/2" brass rod to the correct length. That part will then be JB Weld to the Walker arbor end. A little narrowing of the barrel wedge may also be required to produce a good wedge purchase.
Regards,
Richard
Hi, based on the gap testing with 1/2" OD brass washers, I machined three 1/2" OD brass disks, 0.110, 0.100, and 0.095" long. These are the washers and two of the disks:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Spacer_zpsyfmajh0s.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Spacer_zpsyfmajh0s.jpg.html)
The 0.095" spacer is now in the Walker between the arbor and barrel hole bottom. That spacer produces a 0.003" cylinder/barrel gap with the wedge hammered in hard. I am thinking of using JB Weld to epoxy the spacer to the end of the arbor, like I did with my 1862:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/JB_zpsd6857add.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/JB_zpsd6857add.jpg.html)
So far just having a little oil in the barrel arbor hole seems to be enough to hold the brass spacer in the barrel. I may not need to epoxy the spacer to the arbor if the brass spacer stays in the barrel.
BTW, the small hole in the spacer is purposeful, it allows for easy removal from the barrel and if epoxy to the arbor end, easy positioning on the arbor end.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, well she's no virgin anymore. While probably the lightest loading my Walker will ever see, I fired six shots from 12yds using a two hand hold with wax bullets. Not bad for a wax bullet load?:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/NoVirgin_zpsxvanywik.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/NoVirgin_zpsxvanywik.jpg.html)
The only propulsion for the wax bullets is the primer. I load the primer in .45 Colt Blank brass. What's nice is that hearing protection isn't needed just popping the primer, but safety glasses are a must.
The brass arbor length adjusting button did fall out of the barrel on barrel removal. I will epoxy the button on to the arbor end with JB Weld.
I can't wait until the snow melts and I can put some stout loads on my steel targets.
Regards,
Richard
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That ain't bad. 8)
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Hi, the brass arbor button has been JB Weld to the arbor, see:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Button_zpss0qawxrn.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Button_zpss0qawxrn.jpg.html)
The epoxy securely holds the button to the arbor even with heavily beating on the wedge. The JB Weld did make the button longer by ~0.002". I can now file the button thickness to produce an ideal barrel/cylinder gap. However, I'm in a quandary on what gap to set. The conversion cylinder is 0.005" shorter than the C&B cylinder. I guess that the ideal solution is to shorten the C&B cylinder by 0.005"? The downside is that C&B cylinder face bluing is destroyed.
What would you do and what gap would you set?
Regards,
Richard
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If it was mine I'd set the cylinder gap for the C&B at .003 and try it. That will mean you have an .008 gap with the conversion but IMO that's not too bad. Used to be everybody said .006-.008 was the optimum gap for a C&B. I doubt that you're going to see much difference.
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Hi Hawg, I set the C&B cylinder gap to 0.002". That leaves me with an ~0.007" gap with the conversion cylinder. I think that Howell purposely makes their conversion cylinders short so the cylinder will drop in for most all revolvers.
I think that shortening the C&B cylinder is in my only option for producing an optimal gap with my conversion cylinder for use with smokeless powder loads. I will wait awhile before doing this since it's impossible to reverse removing metal from the C&B cylinder.
Thanks for your suggestion.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, I shortened the Walker C&B cylinder so that is exactly the same length as the Howell conversion cylinder. The brass button on the end of the arbor was then shortened to produce a 0.003" gap with either cylinder. I will wait until I use the Walker a bit before reducing the gap any more to see if the brass button decreases in thickness with use.
The C&B cylinder was reduced in size by sanding with successive finer grit until the face is highly polished. I will cold blue the cylinder end tomorrow.
I must admit to not preferring to modify the C&B cylinder, but it was the only way to have a small gap with both cylinders.
BTW, cylinder/barrel gap is very important to muzzle velocity, see:
http://www.ballisticsbytheinch.com/gaptests.html
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, the shortened C&B cylinder face is now blue again.
There is something about the Walker that owners should be aware. Compared to most of the other models of Colt, the head of many of the screws is more rounded that the flatter screw heads in other Colt models. Even with the best hollowground firearm screw drivers, there is a slight distortion of the screw head at the top of the crown. I can see those screw heads looking like crap in short order. A correct screw driver for these screws must have parallel faces and fit the slot within thousands to avoid distortion. IMO that's an impossible to find or use screwdriver. The next order to VTI will include new high crown screws, maybe buy a whole box of screws cheaper from McMaster-Carr?
The new hammer spring has been received. I will grind down that spring to produce a lighter hammer pull.
Regards,
Richard
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Richard, the screws are rounded on my Colt Walker too.
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Hi Sam, I ordered another set of Uberti Walker screws from Dixie Gun Works to have on hand for the future.
Regards,
Richard
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Richard, will those be rounded or flat screws?
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Hi Sam, they are the Uberti Walker stock rounded screw head. If and when I bugger up the screw heads of the Walker, I will have replacements. I like to keep all my firearms pristine.
Regards,
Richard
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That's one thing that I'm picky about...those screws can cut your hands or fingers when they are buggered up.
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Hi, well she's no virgin anymore. While probably the lightest loading my Walker will ever see, I fired six shots from 12yds using a two hand hold with wax bullets. Not bad for a wax bullet load?:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/NoVirgin_zpsxvanywik.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/NoVirgin_zpsxvanywik.jpg.html)
The only propulsion for the wax bullets is the primer. I load the primer in .45 Colt Blank brass. What's nice is that hearing protection isn't needed just popping the primer, but safety glasses are a must.
The brass arbor length adjusting button did fall out of the barrel on barrel removal. I will epoxy the button on to the arbor end with JB Weld.
I can't wait until the snow melts and I can put some stout loads on my steel targets.
Regards,
Richard
Hi, today was the proof of the pudding. The snow at my steel target range was down to ~6" and the temperature 40F. While I don't like shooting in the cold, I loaded up six .45 Colt (250gr laser cast with 4.8gr TrailBoss) and went out to my range. Shooting from 25yds using a two hand hold produced a group ~3", 9" high. Windage was right on. That heavy Walker is a real popsiclecat shooting mild.45 Colt loads, it barely moved in recoil. I would have liked to see a smaller group, but maybe it can be improved with some load tuning. The long distance the bullets must move before engaging the rifling may be hurting accuracy, will need to do more testing. Hitting high shows that some Dremel work on the hammer sight will be in my Walker's future.
All in all, I'm pretty happy having tested this Walker with all the adjustments made to it.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, just one more day of waiting until I can affect the earths magnetic field around my house. While waiting, research shows that Sam Colt documented his correspondence with Walker in a book that's out of print, but available. I bought a copy like this one on eBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Sam-Colts-Own-Record-1847-Paperback-Reprint-June-1992-/331646129628?hash=item4d37a655dc:g:3VgAAOSwHnFV6b7g
This should provide some good background on the Walker and be an interesting read.
Regards,
Richard
Hi, I received my copy of Sam Colt's Own Record 1847 a few days ago and finished reading it last night. It is an amazing piece of documentation on the development and manufacture of the Colt Walker. It is a must read for anyone that owns a Walker or Dragoon.
There is a lot of horseshit spouted in the other books and the internet that simply isn't true based on this book's documented facts. Cylinders were not iron, but cast of the finest cold forged steel available in the day. So much so that 20% was rejected because it was too hard on the tooling. The initial Walker design didn't include an attached loading lever. The various interesting details go on and on. This book is one great piece of firearm history, a must read.
Regards,
Richard
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That's interesting. I know steel has been around since before Jesus was born but didn't think it was economical enough to make on a commercial basis until the Bessemer process in the late 1850's, which is what the 1860's barrels and cylinders are made of. Even so if you took a forged steel ingot and melted it down for casting it wouldn't be forged anymore but it would still be stronger than iron. Forging is forcing metal into a mold under intense pressure so why would anybody make forged ingots in the first place? It doesn't make sense.
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Hi Hawg, forging aligns the grains and moves impurities into the grain boundaries. The steel is also work hardened and toughened in the forging process. Colt took great pains to buy high quality forged steel for both barrels and cylinders.
Regards,
Richard
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Colt also toured and billed himself as Doctor Colt. Had some nitrous oxide to keep his customers happy.
Kevin
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Yes but casting with it would misalign the grains again.
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Hi, I found a nice reference on Walker movies:
http://www.imfdb.org/wiki/Colt_Walker
Regards,
Richard
Hi, I just finished watching the idiotic western movie, "Three Amigos". It was an asinine movie, but did feature the Walker for a minute or two. I laughed my ass off at the Walker handling and use. I can picture Sam having a similar handling issue. Maybe that's why Sam has yet to shoot his Walker?
Regards,
Richard
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Richard, this "Three Amigos" movie...who played in it?
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Here you go Sam:
http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0092086/
IMO it has become a cult movie.
Regards,
Richard
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I love that movie!!!! L@.
I didn't know there was a Colt Walker in that movie. :-[
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I just watched a few extracts on Youtube, and I guess I'll watch the whole movie tonight. It shouldn't put my poor old brains under too much strain...
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The thought of Steve Martin with a Walker should scare anyone.
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AS I said, I watched the movie. There is indeed a Walker in it, and it has a very important part too. You have to fast forward to approximately 61:18 and watch the gunfight.
Otherwise, the best I can say is you got to be in a very relaxed mood to appreciate it. (*3
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Hi, I'm again waiting for a new Walker. I ordered the kit Uberti Walker, see:
https://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=2033&osCsid=5lvl69p4bv09p6f63u77bbu3s2
Not sure how I am going to finish it, nickel or antique. In any event the cylinder will be finished in white, bare or nickel.
Just when you think you are out, the desire for a new revolver pulls you back in. :)
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, I'm again waiting for a new Walker. I ordered the kit Uberti Walker, see:
https://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?products_id=2033&osCsid=5lvl69p4bv09p6f63u77bbu3s2
Not sure how I am going to finish it, nickel or antique. In any event the cylinder will be finished in white, bare or nickel.
Just when you think you are out, the desire for a new revolver pulls you back in. :)
Regards,
Richard
I have always been intrigued with having a 2nd Model Dragoon sporting a Walker cylinder and shortened forcing cone, only because of the smaller (not by much) frame and the better load-lever/latch. There have been many posts concerning this fantasy revolver work-up and it can be done. Now I just have to find the money for it. ;D
At any rate, good luck with your project and we expect to see the fruits of your labor soon (?).
Jim
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That should be a good project for you Richard. I'm sure you will keep us updated as the project proceeds. A nickel plated Walker would be a unique piece.
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Richard....this should be good! ;)
Are you gonna do the dovetail front sight?
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Hi Kirk, it may be tough to dovetail a Walker since the blade sight is longer than the standard 3/8" dovetail width. My dovetail jig only produces a dovetail a little smaller than 3/8". IMO freehand filing a wider dovetail on the round barrel would end up badly.
Since I already have a shooter Walker, this Walker will be a nickel plated display gun that blinds the viewer. )lI )lI
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, if I want to antique the kit Uberti Walker, what would you suggest? Anyone have a favorite do-it-at-home steel antiquing formula?
Checking on prices for chrome, nickel, nitride, and hot blue finishing it appears one would need to spend as much on the finish as the kit.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Regards,
Richard
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Richard:
Suzukibruce has done nickel plating before and has offered to members to do it for half of what anyone else offered. You might check it out if interested.
I've seen a couple done in plum brown that really didn't appeal to me
I would suggest checking MidwayUSA to see what is currently available. CEO Larry Potterfield has some excellent YouTube videos, availablr on YouTube as well as being linked to the MidwayUSA site. You may want to view them and see if something catches your eye.
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Hi Kirk, thanks for the reply. I will check with Bruce about nickel plating. I found this video interesting:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-CDOJF-TmY#t=900.461708
Cold bluing isn't a durable as hot, but it may wear quickly giving that revolver an old look?
Regards,
Richard
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As far as cold bluing goes...
I had excellent results redoing gun parts as well as touching up entire guns using Oxpho Blue gel from Brownell's:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/paste-cold-bluing-chemicals/oxpho-blue-creme-prod1108.aspx
I haven't had it wear off yet.
It's not as "blue" or lustrous as a hot bluing job, but if you are looking for a weathered or antique finish it might do fine.
I will see if I can find some photos later for you.
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Richard:
The cylinder on this Remmy was purchased in the white. The barrel bluing was worn thin and had minor rust pitting in areas. I treated both using Oxpho Blue and was really happy with the results:
(https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8173/7951698350_640a6524fa_z.jpg)
Also, this little G&G was given the same treatment.
(http://i785.photobucket.com/albums/yy140/Buellosaurusrex/S%20and%20G%20Classic%20Firearms/GG8-1.jpg)
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Hi Kirk, thanks for the info and photos. Your revolver looks nice. I ordered the bluing and the Mark Lee Brown, see:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/blackening-browning/express-brown-2-16-oz-express-brown-2-sku575-100-016-41671-21471.aspx
I will practice on some gas pipe first before doing the Walker.
Regards,
Richard
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Great! Let me know how both turn out. I've been looking for a browning solution for my 'white' Remmy project but the plum brown does not appeal to me.
FYI, if you ordered the 'creme' (gel) form of Oxpho Blue, it 'takes' much better if the part you are treating is warmed...not hot, but warmed. I used a heat gun to gently raise the temperature of the metal to above room temperature (room temp was around 70F; I probably had it 85-90F) before applying the OB. With the pores opened it seemed to take much quicker. The beauty of the gel is that it won't run or streak. Lay it on, wipe it off after a few minutes. You can re-coat as many times as you wish.
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Oh, and...wear latex gloves when handling the metal, degrease with denatured alcohol or equivalent.
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Hi Kirk, the video I referenced does bluing over browning for a more durable bluing job.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X-CDOJF-TmY#t=900.461708
I look forward to this new gun finishing adventure.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, I PMed Bruce about the cost for him to nickel plate my Walker, waiting for the reply. I found a number of 2x12x1/16" pure nickel and copper sheets in my basement and am considering to do the nickel plating myself. There is an electrodeless nickel plating kit available from Caswell that looks interesting, see:
http://www.caswellplating.com/electroplating-anodizing/nickel-plating-kits/electroless-nickel-plating-kits/electroless-nickel-standard-kit-10-pint.html
Since I have appropriate power supplies available and only need the chemicals for nickel plating, it may be lower cost and educational to do the plating myself. I'm still doing research, but already learned that the pros always copper plated the gun parts first before doing the nickel plating.
Getting the Walker kit was to have a project, it now appears that I have a project in spades. (7+" (7+"
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, I ordered various nickel and copper plating chemicals, buffing motor, and buffing wheels for the Walker kit project. I'm still not sure how I will go with finishing this kit. I'm leaning on nitride for the main part of the Walker, but will nickel plate the cylinder myself. Maybe even nickel plate the trigger and hammer. I found a good reference for nickel plating:
https://www.nickelinstitute.org/~/media/Files/TechnicalLiterature/NPH_141015.ashx
Anyone thinking they will save money buying the Walker kit is kidding themselves. (7+" (7+" (7+"
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, I heard back from Bruce on nickel plating my Walker kit, $300. While probably fair, that's a bit too stiff for me. I would rather put the money into chemicals and equipment to learn to do the job myself. Once learned, it's useful for other plating projects.
The Walker kit is due to arrive later today. I will report back on what's in the kit and the work that will be required to finish the revolver. Information on the internet suggests that the kit steel parts are rough and the brass is rough cast to the metal parts are ready for a simple polish with easy wood finishing. We'll see.
BTW, ordered some nickel plating references:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/121923422608?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.ebay.com/itm/281929058276?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
http://www.amazon.com/Metals-Handbook-Asm-Cleaning-Finishing/dp/0871700115?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Regards,
Richard
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The Walker kit is due to arrive later today. I will report back on what's in the kit and the work that will be required to finish the revolver. Information on the internet suggests that the kit steel parts are rough and the brass is rough cast to the metal parts are ready for a simple polish with easy wood finishing. We'll see.
Well, I dunno about your kit....
Mine required extensive smoothing, blending and polishing on the barrel and frame. The cylinder came blued and ready to install, as were the hammer, loading lever and internals (case hardened) but I did not leave them as they came, but rather put in a lot of time polishing and smoothing. I ended up with the nicest action of any of my revolvers as a result.
Yes, the barrel could have been blued as-is, but it had a ton of milling marks and surface imperfections I could not live with.
The important thing is, DON'T BE IN A HURRY. You will finish it when the time is right and you will be very happy you didn't rush it.
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BTW...if you don't have them already, I would suggest stopping by your nearest Harbor Freight (or going online) and ordering a belt/disc sander for working the grip and backstrap fitting. I did mine entirely by hand using files and sandpaper and it was a HUGE timesucker. Since you are already going the extra mile with the plating supplies, having machining tools to zip through the job makes a lot of sense. Who knows...you may just find you really enjoy doing kits and building guns better than the factory can....
See:
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result/index/?AttribSel=Sander+Type%3D%27Stationary+Sanders%27&CatPath=All%2BProducts%252F%252F%252F%252FUserSearch%253Dsander&RequestData=CA_AttributeSelected&q=sander
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Hi, the Uberti Walker kit just came in the door.
My first impression is that this kit is far better than expected. The revolver timing is perfect with a nice hammer and trigger pull. There is little metal work to be done. The brass trigger guard is a rough casting, but being brass it should clean up easily. The barrel is ground fit to the frame and the only work required on the frame is near where the backstrap contacts the frame, some fine grinding marks. All the work will only require hand working, no machining required. The wood grip is much better than expected where just a little sanding will be necessary to fit the grip.
IMO this Walker is shootable just as it is. Of course I will work the metal to a high polish for either plating or nitride finishing. Since I already have a nicely tuned Walker for shooting, there is no rush to complete this kit.
The beauty and the beast:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Beast.jpg_zpscfxtjswn.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Beast.jpg_zpscfxtjswn.jpg.html)
Regards,
Richard
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Holy Smokes!....that's a far cry from the kit I did. As you say, it could be ready to shoot very quickly. I look forward to your updates.
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Hi, I disassembled the Uberti Walker kit revolver and degreased the parts with paint thinner. The internals were surprisingly clean of metal particles and other debris. The ground edges of the frame are very sharp. The barrel internal rifling is crisp and sharp, the crown and forcing cone beautifully done. The loading lever spring on the barrel was drifted off. I found the cylinder length longer by 0.004" than my Howell .45 Colt conversion cylinder so the C&B cylinder length will be shortened by that amount. I shortened the finished Uberti Walker C&B cylinder by 0.004" so it was the same length as the Howell conversion cylinder.
Since the steel is now bare metal, I will give the parts a coat of Ballistol to prevent rusting as the parts are being worked. It appears that the only significant work to do on the kit is working the brass trigger guard and the grip.
Parts is parts:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Partsisparts.jpg_zpsmnkd6txm.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Partsisparts.jpg_zpsmnkd6txm.jpg.html)
Regards,
Richard
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Richard, that is a very nice kit. That came from Dixie?
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Hi Kirk, yes it is the Dixie $299 Uberti Walker kit. I began to work on the brass trigger guard. A sanding wheel in my electric drill removed the brass flash in just a couple of minutes. Sandpaper on the brass eats the brass like it is hard wood. I ordered a used constant current power supply for the nickel plating:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/222077020859?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Since the cylinder will be nickel plated, I will work on that steel part of the revolver first. If that goes well, I can consider nickel plating the rest of the revolver.
I'm still not sure if I will plate a copper undercoat. Older guns were always plated with copper first to provide two benefits. The first is enhanced corrosion protection, the second to provide filler in defects on the steel surface. A smoother nickel plate can be had if plated on the polished copper base. However, there is a downside (yes, there's always a downside to everything) that bore cleaning solvents like Hoppe's and Ballistol dissolve copper and can undermine the nickel plate by eating the copper base. Plating the nickel directly on steel can create a finish that isn't ideally protective and the nickel can chip easier than when on the copper undercoat.
I'm learning a lot, so far it has been great fun.
Regards,
Richard
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....bore cleaning solvents like Hoppe's and Ballistol dissolve copper and can undermine the nickel plate by eating the copper base.
There's your plug for good ol' soap and water. That's all I use these days on all my BP revolvers.
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Hi Kirk, soap and water is fine for cleaning BP, but what if you also want to do smokeless powder conversion cylinder shooting?
What do you put on you revolvers to prevent corrosion?
Regards,
Richard
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Rem Oil.
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Hi, came across this interesting video on nitre bluing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5_IeMl6R8fc&ebc=ANyPxKpZnDQWHXWyHMkdiuZFeLSwIDe5TKYQQuXpshsUBOyX_YelEZmuKigGGA5BVySyEW0qhpYueln9U1A6Jw8rdDqseaT2Cg
This may be the way to get a professional looking blue job with a do-it-yourself process.
If you don't like the idea of using stump remover, you can get the correct salts here:
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/metal-prep-coloring/metal-bluing/bluing-salts/nitreblue-bluing-salts-prod1105.aspx
Anyone ever use nitre bluing?
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, the work on the brass trigger guard is going well. However, I did have a setback. I started to hand sand metal from the front of the cylinder to shorten the cylinder by 0.005" to equal the Howell conversion cylinder length. The last time I did this for my original Uberti Walker it took me ~ two hours. Wanting to save some time I hit the front of the cylinder with a belt sander. I know you are already ahead of me on what happened? Yes, the cylinder is now 0.006" too short.
We pay for our mistakes, a new Uberti Walker cylinder is now on order from Dixie.
In any event, I now have spare nipples and a short cylinder to test my nickel plating.
I know, yes, I could have purchased an already finished Walker for the cost already incurred. (jh (jh (jh
Regards,
Richard
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We weren't gonna go there Richard. You already knew that.
What you are doing is paying the tuition for your BP gunsmithing course. Seems pretty reasonable to me.
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Richard, You are paying tuition for others on this forum too. We are all watching and learning along with you.
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Me too! L@.
All you guys goof ups save me money and my life here! *6'
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Hi, while having all that extra time to work on the Walker kit instead of visiting some BP gun message boards that disapeard, I have made good progress. Most all of the metalwork has been roughed in. The machining marks in the steel have been removed. The brass trigger guard forging is ready for polish and the mating steel parts are now fitted to one another. The walnut grip has been sanded to shape and now being finished with tung oil. The chemicals and equipment of nickel plating are coming in where I should be able to experiment with nickel plating next week.
Since the steel parts need to be assembled for parts fitting while sanding in, some of the revolver blued screws must be used. Walker screws are proud where you will end up sanding off the bluing of the screw heads. Be prepared to order some new replacement screws.
I wish I had taken some before pictures, it's a bit too late now, but here is the result so far:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Kit2_zpsrrikhycl.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Kit2_zpsrrikhycl.jpg.html)
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Kit1_zpszodhfr1z.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Kit1_zpszodhfr1z.jpg.html)
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Kit3_zpsk0fj1ihv.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Kit3_zpsk0fj1ihv.jpg.html)
While I am taking a certain amount of pleasure doing the work necessary to build the Walker kit, a better path would have been to buy an already finished Walker and then improve on it if necessary.
Regards,
Richard
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Looks nice!
I agree with your last statement, it's a lot of work to save $80.00 but it's a good $80.00 education!! (I built a Walker kit once . . . . . . . I repeat, once!) I also agree, there's enough "finishing" left to do on a "ready to run" example Frome Italy. Of course, that is subjective because every SA can be improved on from kit to ready to go, it just depends on what degree the owner wants the end product to be (if there is ever an end!!).
Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
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Hi, the polishing compound for my new Harbor Freight buffing/polishing motor arrived today. In just a few minutes on the buffing wheel, parts of the Walker now shine like a mirror. It's very impressive on how quickly the motorized buffer takes out imperfections on the revolver steel surface and replaces them with a shine. I'm going slow around the brass for fear of excessive brass removal. A few minutes a day buffing should leave the revolver looking like a mirror.
I'm still toying with different coating methods for the Walker. There is a simple beauty of just polished bare steel. Plating it with Nickel may turn a manly looking revolver in to a pimp's paperweight. Nitride finish is rough, cold blue is delicate, and hot blue is expensive. I already have a blued Walker and don't need another. If I could only find a good formula for doing an antique job, I might consider it. However, most all the antique finished gun images I have seen look like the revolver spent many years in a septic tank.
Regards,
Richard
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You might want to look at this:
http://www.cascity.com/forumhall/index.php?topic=47401.0
I have never tried this, but if you have a few spare parts to practice upon it might be a possibility.
22+ years ago I had a Remington #5 Rolling Block rifle (in 7mm Mauser/7x57) that had many "polishing" issues from a previous owner and I had some small parts (hammer, block, trigger, screws, and others that I "case-colored" by judiciously heating the parts with a propane torch to a faint straw color and immediately quenching them in 30W motor oil (do this outdoors, please). I have also re-tempered bad springs using this method.
Lots of nice colors and no problem with wear once re-installed in the rifle, but I am not saying you may not have different results.
Jim
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Hi Jim, interesting, thank you. Sounds like you were doing nitre bluing without the salts?
http://blackpowdersmoke.com/colt/index.php?topic=1412.msg15465#msg15465
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, ten minutes on the buffing wheel, the photos don't do the finish justice:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Shine_zpshujmv7lt.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Shine_zpshujmv7lt.jpg.html)
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Shine2_zpslrfxxjoq.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Shine2_zpslrfxxjoq.jpg.html)
Regards,
Richard
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Looking really good, Richard! L@J
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Hi, all the parts of the Walker are now highly polished. I got a quote back from H&M Metal Processing for nitride coating my barrel, frame, and backstrap, $200 + $25 shipping. This is the place:
http://www.blacknitride.com/index.html
The cylinder was not included because it will nickel plated. The nitride is a matte finish where I may have wasted time polishing the steel of the revolver. I still have questions for H&M like if I should leave the old screws in the frame and barrel to protect the revolver threads, and if the barrel bore could be plugged to keep nitride out of the bore.
The adventure continues.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, the Walker steel kit parts are packaged up to be sent to H&M Metal Processing tomorrow for nitride coating. A little research shows that nitride coating the bore of a barrel is better than doing a chrome bore job. One question to H&M answered with a little research.
This is the brass triggerguard, the photo doesn't do it justice:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Brass_zps5ksvwfx3.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Brass_zps5ksvwfx3.jpg.html)
The Caswell brightener chemicals for the nickel plating bath arrived today. Nickel plating testing should begin soon. I am set up to use the standard 1916 Watt's formula for the nickel plating solution with the addition of Caswell brighteners.
This Walker better end up the cat's meow, it's sure costing me. (7+" (7+" (7+"
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, the walnut grip has just gotten its sixth coat of Tung Oil. The grip was smoothed down with #0000 steelwool after each coat cured. The walnut wood of this grip is just ok, but I would have preferred a grip with more figure. If after assembly on the revolver and the grip still disappoints, I may replace it. Fitting a grip to a Walker before the metal parts have been finished is easy peasy, but could be difficult after the metal parts are finished.
The last coat of Tung Oil curing on the grip:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Grip_zps2ykpbzyg.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Grip_zps2ykpbzyg.jpg.html)
Regards,
Richard
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Looks OK to me, Richard. And I agree; once the metal has been shaped and finished, getting a seamless fit becomes much more difficult.
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Hi, this is a photo of my screwed up in the white Walker cylinder next to the blued replacement cylinder that has been correctly sized:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/booboo_zpsru9i0rze.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/booboo_zpsru9i0rze.jpg.html)
My Howell 45. Colt conversion cylinder is 2.429" long. The screwed up cylinder is 2.422" long, the correctly sized blued replacement is now 2.429" long.
I'm now faced with a bit of a dilemma, do I strip the blued cylinder for nickel plating or not. The too short cylinder will be the test case for nickel plating and if it comes out well, even if it is too short for shooting use, it could still be useful for show? Use the blued cylinders for shooting and leave the nickel plated cylinder for show?
Regards,
Richard
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Hi Jim, interesting, thank you. Sounds like you were doing nitre bluing without the salts?
http://blackpowdersmoke.com/colt/index.php?topic=1412.msg15465#msg15465
Regards,
Richard
That's very interesting using "stump killer" as a bluing solution. Someone with a chemistry background must have figured that out.
If you are referring to the heated/oil-quenched colors, I was not interested in a solid "blue" like your link refers to. I wish I still had pictures of that RB.
Just looking for different ways to do "case colors". Kasenit used to be somewhat good but the colors were more grayish.
Jim
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Hi Jim, the Brownells NitreBlue is lower cost per pound than buying stump remover. I just ordered the Brownells, have to give that stuff a try. Always looking for new ground to plow. L@. L@. L@.
Regards,
Richard
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Great! Let me know how both turn out. I've been looking for a browning solution for my 'white' Remmy project but the plum brown does not appeal to me.
FYI, if you ordered the 'creme' (gel) form of Oxpho Blue, it 'takes' much better if the part you are treating is warmed...not hot, but warmed. I used a heat gun to gently raise the temperature of the metal to above room temperature (room temp was around 70F; I probably had it 85-90F) before applying the OB. With the pores opened it seemed to take much quicker. The beauty of the gel is that it won't run or streak. Lay it on, wipe it off after a few minutes. You can re-coat as many times as you wish.
Hi Kirk, I used the Oxpho Blue creme to blue the front of the Walker cylinder that was shortened. I am very impressed with the result, it looks great! That result makes me wonder if I should have done the whole Walker with that cold blue.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, good success with the nickel plating of my Walker cylinder. This is the setup:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/setup_zpsnqsiphkf.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/setup_zpsnqsiphkf.jpg.html)
This is the result, no buffing was required:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Nickel_zpsxyfg9mrs.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Nickel_zpsxyfg9mrs.jpg.html)
The nickel salt bath used is the Watts 1916 formula:
40 oz/gal NiSO4 (Nickel Sulfate)
6 oz/gal NiCl2 (Nickel Chloride)
4 oz/gal H3BO3 (Boric Acid)
and
5 oz/gal Caswell Brightener
The bath was at 130 degrees F. The current was 1.5A for 10 minutes.
And the beat goes on.
Regards,
Richard
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I'd call that PDG (pretty damn good) for your first try!
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Hi Captain, thanks for the complement, but I first practiced on some large wrench sockets before doing the Walker cylinder. Doing the nickel on the Walker cylinder may have been a fools errand since the original Walker cylinder was in the white, bare steel. The nickel coated cylinder has a slippery feel compared to the cylinder bare steel.
This metal coating exercise was an educational pursuit. There is no way it can be economically justified for finishing a kit gun. IMO doing the Brownells Oxpho Blue creme for a kit gun would have been the prudent economic choice.
Regards,
Richard
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how long are dragoon cyls?
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Hi sound, sorry, but I don't have any Dragoons to measure the cylinder length. I know there are a few other people here that have Dragoons that may eventually chime in. I do know that the Dragoon cylinder is shorter than the Walker.
My frame, barrel, and backstrap arrived at the nitride finishing place on Monday, I'm now is a wait mode. Ground down the edges of the Walker hammer spring to produce a reduced power spring. I did the same with my Uberti finished Walker.
That modified spring on the Walker produced:
Hammer pull from half cock - 4.5lbs
Trigger pull from full cock - 2.75lbs
Regards,
Richard
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how long are dragoon cyls?
Give me until tonight and I'll tell you.
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Hi, have you ever seen a 5-shot Walker cylinder. Well here it is:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Screwup_zpsxiwz3ixr.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Screwup_zpsxiwz3ixr.jpg.html)
After getting the replacement cylinder length properly sized and the cylinder face blued, I managed to screw the cylinder up. I was reinstalling the nipples with anti-seize compound and managed to strip out half the threads of one of the chambers. To prevent someone in the future from shooting a nipple into their head I put a 1/4-28 screw into the remaining partial cylinder chamber thread. Maybe a better safe fix would be to drill out all the threads in that chamber?
The replacement Walker cylinder for the last replacement will arrive today. I will be much more careful with the new Walker cylinder.
Want to screw up a revolver, send it to me.
Regards,
Richard
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Richard,
Don't think you are the Lone Ranger.
I've done many faux pas in my lifetime, and I'm sure there are more to come.
Very interesting safety measure. L@.
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Hi Jim, in a little over a half hour I got the replacement for the replacement Walker cylinder shortened to the correct length and blued.
One thing for sure, practice makes perfect. (7+" (7+" (7+"
I bought some slix-shot nipples for the Walter thinking that maybe they had a longer thread than the Uberti nipples. The thought was that maybe the slix-shot nipple would engage enough of the remaining chamber threads to be safe. The Slix-shots do have a longer thread, but not long enough to satisfy my desire for safety. The replacement Walker cylinder will remain a 5-shot.
Regards,
Richard
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The Dragoon cylinder is 2.241 without the cylinder ratchet and 2.344 with it.
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I might JB weld the nipple in and fill the chamber up with sand or something and then JB weld a ball on top. That way at least it will look right but be impossible to fire. I say "might" because I would not want to do it if it makes it hard to prevent rust.
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Hi, this may be a path to repair stripped Walker cylinder 1/4-28 nipple threads:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90247a022/=126pv2h
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, this may be a path to repair stripped Walker cylinder 1/4-28 nipple threads:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90247a022/=126pv2h
Regards,
Richard
Hi, this one may be a better choice for the Walker cylinder:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90259a136/=126visl
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, this may be a path to repair stripped Walker cylinder 1/4-28 nipple threads:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90247a022/=126pv2h
Regards,
Richard
Richard,
When I worked in the HVAC/R profession in a previous life, the McMaster-Carr catalog was my bench bible for all manner of parts for hard-to-find solutions. The catalog then was almost 4" thick.
If they are the same company and offer the same high-quality parts/tools, I would trust them implicitly. My supervisor also loved it and would allow me to order all manner of stuff from them. I kind of wish I would have saved a catalog from the 80's-90's for my library just to peruse occasionally for old times sake.
Jim
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Hi, this morning I got an email from UPS that my Walker revolver parts being nitride coated by H&M METAL PROCESSING will arrive on Monday. Monday will be exactly two weeks from when H&M got the Walker parts. IMO that a pretty quick turnaround. I can't wait to see the finished frame, barrel, and backstrap that was nitride coated.
Assuming that there is no problem with the coating, the only thing remaining to do on the Uberti Walker is to assemble it and do the arbor length mod (epoxy correct length brass button on arbor end).
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, I had a nice surprise, the UPS delivery of my Walker parts being nitride coated by H&M METAL PROCESSING arrive today! The nitride coating is spectacular!!! Well worth the $200. Here is the assembled Uberti 1847 Walker with a nitride finish and nickel plated cylinder:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Done_almost_zpsuhakqps2.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Done_almost_zpsuhakqps2.jpg.html)
The only thing next to do is to correct the arbor length.
I'm going to call this revolver my "Little Boy".
The kit cost $300, I screwed up the cylinder, another $80 more, and the coating cost $200. Was it worth it? Maybe not, but this Walker will become my favorite. Gee, even the wife liked it!
Regards,
Richard
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Well, you said it first Richard. Spectacular!
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That is absolutely beautiful! I love how black the blue is! That pistol is a work of art!
Well done! The wood and the brass look very good, also.
Jeez, I want to do an 1851 Pietta Navy like that, including the polished cylinder. Just for grins as I am not into "correct" pistols, but that just stands out as exceptional.
Can you post the purveyors link again?
Thanks in advance!
Jim
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Hi Jim, this is the link to H&M METAL PROCESSING:
http://www.blacknitride.com/index.html
The cost is $200 + $25 shipping.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, a brass button was JB Weld to the end of the arbor and then adjusted for a 0.003" gap, see:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Brassbutton_zpsowoc1iub.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Brassbutton_zpsowoc1iub.jpg.html)
This is the Walker with a pedestrian blued cylinder ready for action:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/JustanotherWalker_zpshvmgcghh.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/JustanotherWalker_zpshvmgcghh.jpg.html)
The nickel plated cylinder will only be used when going to whore houses. L@. L@. L@.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, I forgot to mention that the nitride coating has the action work like it's in liquid butter, it's so smooth. There is no dimensional change in parts doing the nitriding, but the hard coating seems to be a surface like Teflon, so slick.
I am seriously considering sending in my Colt 1911 for nitride coating.
IMO finishing a firearm in nitride is the best thing since sliced bread. You can take that to the bank.
Regards,
Richard
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Richard, thank you very much for the link!
I am still in awe of that piece. It is gorgeous!
And, if it is that slick, any 1911 would benefit from it.
Jim
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It is a really nice finish Richard but still treat it like normal, it will scratch and wear. I serviced Hovey Smith's "Super Walker" that was Nitrited as well. If I can dig up a posted pic of it I'll put it here. He also had his Remie Buffalo Nitrited.
Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
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It is a really nice finish Richard but still treat it like normal, it will scratch and wear. I serviced Hovey Smith's "Super Walker" that was Nitrited as well. If I can dig up a posted pic of it I'll put it here. He also had his Remie Buffalo Nitrited.
Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
Hi Mike, do you think that the nitride finish is as claimed to be a superior finish than traditional bluing? If I remember Hovey Smith's video correctly, he didn't take any effort to smooth out the kit machine marks or polish his Walker kit revolver. He also nitrided all the other revolver parts that didn't have a spring. Tribology 101 (friction and wear) teaches us that similar metal surfaces have higher friction than non similar metal surfaces. I chose to only nitride three parts of the Walker, the frame, barrel, and backstrap. All the other parts are as received. Like with my original Uberti Walker, I did reduce the hammer spring width to create a lower hammer and trigger pull than with an original strength spring.
I would like to see a photo of Smith's nitrided Walker.
Regards,
Richard
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It is definitely a superior finish. I think CVA advertises the finish as " too hard to rust"!! (That's cool!!!)
You are correct, Hovey didn't take any pains to smooth the frame. His explanation was that he's interested in it being a hunting machine, not a looker! He loads 240gr. Kaido bullets with as much trip-7 as he can get under them.
Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
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Hi, a pair of Walkers that could have Jose Wales proud:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/Wales_zpskemg0dsp.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/Wales_zpskemg0dsp.jpg.html)
The top Uberti Walker is the kit finished with nitride. It is sporting a Howell .45 Colt conversion cylinder. The bottom Uberti Walker is the factory produced revolver sporting a nickel plated cylinder. Both revolvers have the same barrel/cylinder gap with the wedge hammered in tight, 0.003".
The Walker kit is ready for shooting, but I first need to get that revolver on my pistol permit.
What's better than one Walker? Two Walkers. &\? &\? &\?
Regards,
Richard
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Nice! .003" should keep um nice and clean and a good tight wedge is great insurance!! Nice set o Walkers!!
Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks
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Very nice Richard. This has been an interesting thread to follow with an excellent outcome and some very good information along the way.
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WOW! Those both look GREAT! L@.
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Hi Mike, the singular important thing that I learned doing this this Walker project is that I will never again do a kit revolver.
^j) ^j) ^j)
Regards,
Richard
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...but I first need to get that revolver on my pistol permit ... Regards,
Richard
Permit?
Kevin
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...but I first need to get that revolver on my pistol permit ... Regards,
Richard
Permit?
Kevin
Hi Kevin, I live in New York State. If you own a BP handgun and have caps, powder, and ball readily available such that the handgun can be fired, you must have that handgun on your pistol permit. My pistol permit looks like a pinata with all the pages attached.
It is what it is and only takes 10 minutes + $3 at the county clerk's office to get the handgun registered. I expect to get that done on Thursday.
Regards,
Richard
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Which is why I live in Arizona.
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Hi Electric, I would love to have the gun laws of Arizona here. However, I would miss the deep woods of the northeast if I left New York. Other than New York city (NYC), most of the rest of the state is conservative that hates the gun laws imposed by NYC influence.
BTW, have you noticed that Arizona is now a safer place to live since Johnnie moved out of the state? &\? &\? &\?
Regards,
Richard
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...but I first need to get that revolver on my pistol permit ... Regards,
Richard
Permit?
Kevin
Hi Kevin, I live in New York State. If you own a BP handgun and have caps, powder, and ball readily available such that the handgun can be fired, you must have that handgun on your pistol permit. My pistol permit looks like a pinata with all the pages attached.
It is what it is and only takes 10 minutes + $3 at the county clerk's office to get the handgun registered. I expect to get that done on Thursday.
Regards,
Richard
New York, enough said!
Kevin
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Hi, I got the Uberti Walker kit revolver on my pistol permit first thing this morning. Went out back to test this new revolver. I fired 25rds from 25yds, two hand hold, using the Howell .45 Colt conversion cylinder with 250gr Laser Cast & 4.7gr Noble Sport Vectan BA-10 handloads. I brought out 100rds, but when seeing that I was getting a small consistent group ~1.5" 8" high, I stopped. Why push my luck and waste anymore ammo doing tests. This Walker's accuracy is amazing with a two handed hold. This heavy revolver is as steady as a rock, I doubt that a bench rest would allow any better accuracy. I don't know why, but this kit Walker is more accurate than my original factory finished Walker, ~3" groups 9" high @25yds. The only difference was the load when testing the original Walker, 4.8gr TrailBoss powder instead of 4.7gr Vectan BA-10 used today.
The Walker revolver operated flawlessly. The flat black of the nitride finish looks like it was designed for a serious handgun. While it cost me much more for the kit than the finished Uberti Walker, performance shown today shouts that it is worth the higher cost.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, I'm working on getting the Walker C&B cylinder fixed where I screwed up one of the nipple hole threads. This is the nipple adapter insert to fix the buggered threads:
http://www.mcmaster.com/#90259a136/=126visl
The remaining tools ordered to use that insert arrived today. The buggered thread nipple hole was opened up with a #5 taper pin reamer first, then chased with a Q size (0.332") straight reamer. That hole was then taped to 3/8-16 for a fit on the nipple adapter. I will insert a nipple in the adapter and then use JB Weld as a thread sealer for the 3/8-16 adapter. JB Weld can take 500 deg F and takes hours to partially set. That will give sufficient time to use a nipple wrench to insert the adapter with nipple to the correct depth. I'm please on how well this is going, but if I ever intend on using that chamber, I will do a proof round first in that chamber before relying on that chambers safety.
Regards,
Richard
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There are better thread sealer/ lockers than kb.
Loctite makes many color, formula, application specific threw locker/sealers.
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Hi soundguy, what makes you say that the loctite products are superior to JB Weld?
JB Weld has a 20k psi tensile strength and is good to 500 deg F. That seems quite sufficient for my cylinder chamber insert application. I have a few different loctite products, blue, purple, and red, but believe them inferior for my application compared to JB. Do you have a better loctite product suggestion if an insert is ever needed again?
Thanks for the suggestion.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, some calculations on the strength of the 3/8x16 chamber insert:
.45 Colt maximum chamber pressure = 14000 psi
Cross sectional area of the insert = 0.10145" ^2
Load on the insert = 0.10145 X 14000 = 1546lbs
Proof load of a Class 2 (mild steel) 3/8x16 bolt = 4250lbs
Tensile strength of Class 2 3/8x16 bolt = 5750
These calculations show that the insert should easily handle the chamber pressure.
Inquiring minds need to know. &\? &\? &\?
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, guess which Walker nipple has the 3/8x16 insert:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/InsertDone_zpsbj1gcjx8.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/InsertDone_zpsbj1gcjx8.jpg.html)
IMO unless you examined the internal bottom of each chamber you would never know. The insert is at the top nipple.
Slix-Shot nipples are installed on this cylinder.
Murphy's law suggests that now that I have all the tools and materials necessary to replace a buggered Walker nipple thread, a buggered Walker nipple thread will never again happen. That works for me. L@. L@. L@.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi Electric, I would love to have the gun laws of Arizona here. However, I would miss the deep woods of the northeast if I left New York. Other than New York city (NYC), most of the rest of the state is conservative that hates the gun laws imposed by NYC influence.
BTW, have you noticed that Arizona is now a safer place to live since Johnnie moved out of the state? &\? &\? &\?
Regards,
Richard
Didn't know he'd left. Stopped paying any attention to him ages ago, and haven't been to the Remington forum in quite some time.
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Hi, what's better than one .45 Colt conversion cylinder for my Walkers? Two, of course. Ordered another Howell .45 Colt Uberti Walker conversion cylinder from Midwayusa.
Looking forward to do a Josey Wales with .45 Colt using my two Walkers. That is if I don't fall over from the weight holding out two Walkers. (7+" (7+" (7+"
BTW, Midway has some pretty good sale prices for conversion cylinders.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, guess which Walker nipple has the 3/8x16 insert:
(http://i1283.photobucket.com/albums/a549/ssb73q/InsertDone_zpsbj1gcjx8.jpg) (http://s1283.photobucket.com/user/ssb73q/media/InsertDone_zpsbj1gcjx8.jpg.html)
IMO unless you examined the internal bottom of each chamber you would never know. The insert is at the top nipple.
Slix-Shot nipples are installed on this cylinder.
Murphy's law suggests that now that I have all the tools and materials necessary to replace a buggered Walker nipple thread, a buggered Walker nipple thread will never again happen. That works for me. L@. L@. L@.
Regards,
Richard
I would have guessed the 10 o'clock position (wrong!) but if you had not let on that one chamber had been repaired, I don't think I would have been any the wiser.
Looks like a better than satisfactory job to me!
Good work, Richard. And you are right about Murphy. Who was that guy, anyway? :)
Jim
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Hi, what's better than one .45 Colt conversion cylinder for my Walkers? Two, of course. Ordered another Howell .45 Colt Uberti Walker conversion cylinder from Midwayusa.
Looking forward to do a Josey Wales with .45 Colt using my two Walkers. That is if I don't fall over from the weight holding out two Walkers. (7+" (7+" (7+"
BTW, Midway has some pretty good sale prices for conversion cylinders.
Regards,
Richard
Hi, the new Howell Uberti Walker .45 Colt conversion cylinder from Midwayusa just came in the door. It is beautifully made and the cylinder length is exactly the same (2.429") as the Howell cylinder purchased from Old South Firearms.
This is my 16th conversion cylinder. I usually like two conversion cylinders for each of the different make and models of my BP revolvers.
Now to get both the Walkers out and do some Josey Wales on steel targets.
Regards,
Richard
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Hi, got to do a Josey Wales using my two Walkers today. What a hoot!!
I was using .45 Colt loaded with 25g (by weight) Black Mz with 250gr Laser Cast bullets in my Walkers using conversion cylinders. The smoke was great, the recoil stiff, and the steel target sang with an intensity not experience before. The temperature of the barrels was so high that I was having trouble removing the barrels to change conversion cylinders. This was a volume equivalent of 32gr of Black Mz. I was a bit surprised by the sharp recoil from the Walkers. I normally shoot 30gr (volume) with cap & Ball in my .44 caliber revolvers, but there was something about the load in .45 Colt that seemed to make the C&B loading seem tame in comparison. The heads of the brass cases showed head coining suggesting that some high pressures were being created. I have fired some stiff .45 Colt with the Walker conversion cylinders using smokeless powder and never had such a hot loading as the Black Mz. This needs to be studied some more. Need to get the chronograph out.
Edit:
Hi, it's a bitch getting older where I forget what I have done before. Seems that I chronographed the 25gr Black Mz loading before with an 1860, see:
http://blackpowdersmoke.com/colt/index.php?topic=691.msg5227#msg5227
IMO the longer barrel length of the Walker should produce higher velocities than the 1860.
BTW, the brass after shooting was submerged in a 50/50% vinegar water mix. That really did a good job cleaning the brass for reloading.
The archive of this message board is a treasure for anyone having a question about using and shooting the various Colts. I hope it lives forever! &\? &\? &\?
Regards,
Richard
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Someone mentioned the book- Sam Colts Own Record. Another r e a l l y good book, very short though, is Col. Whittingtons- The Colt Whitneyville-Walker Pistol. Dixie Gun Works lists it.
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Hi Richard -
Have you chrony'd these loads in the Walker yet?
in the other thread you had not mentioned coining of the brass, and "stiff recoil" in a Walker must really be something !
It seems pressures in the Walker surely must be greater for that to happen?
yhs
prof marvel
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I was using .45 Colt loaded with 25g (by weight) Black Mz with 250gr Laser Cast bullets in my Walkers using conversion cylinders. The smoke was great, the recoil stiff, and the steel target sang with an intensity not experience before. The temperature of the barrels was so high that I was having trouble removing the barrels to change conversion cylinders. This was a volume equivalent of 32gr of Black Mz. I was a bit surprised by the sharp recoil from the Walkers. I normally shoot 30gr (volume) with cap & Ball in my .44 caliber revolvers, but there was something about the load in .45 Colt that seemed to make the C&B loading seem tame in comparison. The heads of the brass cases showed head coining suggesting that some high pressures were being created. I have fired some stiff .45 Colt with the Walker conversion cylinders using smokeless powder and never had such a hot loading as the Black Mz. This needs to be studied some more. Need to get the chronograph out.
Edit:
Hi, it's a bitch getting older where I forget what I have done before. Seems that I chronographed the 25gr Black Mz loading before with an 1860, see:
http://blackpowdersmoke.com/colt/index.php?topic=691.msg5227#msg5227
IMO the longer barrel length of the Walker should produce higher velocities than the 1860.
BTW, the brass after shooting was submerged in a 50/50% vinegar water mix. That really did a good job cleaning the brass for reloading.
The archive of this message board is a treasure for anyone having a question about using and shooting the various Colts. I hope it lives forever! &\? &\? &\?
Regards,
Richard
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Hi prof, no I have not chronographed the .45 Colt with Black Mz in the Walker. Besides the link in the message you referenced, I did chronograph that same load in a short barreled revolver, see:
http://blackpowdersmoke.com/colt/index.php?topic=709.msg5394#msg5394
There isn't anything unusual about that .45 Colt loading in the 1860 or 1851 Yank, but that same load in the Walker was really stiff. The next time I set up the chronograph I will test that load in the Walker.
Regards,
Richard
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While I m waiting for m y Walker, I m having a great time learning a lot from the massive amount of g r e a t info in this thread!!!
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Hi, since PhotoBucket crapped on us and photos in this thread were lost, I am adding a photo for posterity. These are my two Walkers, the top a Walker kit nitride finished:
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4541/23964896507_3144b55dd3_b.jpg)
The lower Walker is factory with the cylinder nickel plated. Not long ago I added a dovetail sight to my kit Walker so that poi=poa at 25yds using .45 Colt conversion cylinders, that photo:
(http://farm5.staticflickr.com/4542/23964895857_b5f20836db_b.jpg)
While Walkers are heavy, they offer a very stable platform for precision shooting. The added sight radius also helps. IMO every serious BP revolver shooter should own a Walker.
Regards,
Richard
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That's a helluva set Richard.
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I'll go along with that. That nitride finish is a new one on me, I like that. I wonder how a Walker would look if the whole thang was nickel plated. That would be awesome.