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Leather / Re: Made from cowhide (mostly)
« on: May 07, 2024, 06:58:25 AM »
Very nice Mike!!
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2
Percussion Caps and Primers / Re: Caps Available
« on: April 19, 2024, 08:44:48 PM »
Yes, they work.
Rem. 10's = CCI 11's = RWS 1075'S
Rem. 10's = CCI 11's = RWS 1075'S
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Gunsmithing/Parts & Repairs/Refinishing / Re: Measuring mainspring strength
« on: March 24, 2024, 10:42:19 AM »Marshal Will, I recently obtained a early 3rd gen. Colt SAA that was very lightly used. However, the original owner had done that leather pad under the mainspring trick. I recall back in the 70's & 80's that was the recommendation in many gun magazines. I tried it back then and found very little difference. Anyway back to that recent purchase. The owner must have installed that leather pad when the gun was pretty new because on taking the grips off the whole area around the mainspring/backstrap/trigger guard was covered in rust. You would know better what type of leather would cause that. It cleaned up quickly though. Fortunately the rust didn't intrude any farther as this particular SAA was a full blue model with what looked like extra polishing, about what the older Pythons used to come with.
Which is why "real gun tuners" ( Jim Martin) teach NOT to use a leather for that. A steel washer is better. I don't use washers anymore, I'd rather get the main to the tension desired.
Mike
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Gunsmithing/Parts & Repairs/Refinishing / Re: Measuring mainspring strength
« on: March 21, 2024, 03:18:44 PM »I've always measured from half cock. I hook my scale under the nose of the hammer and check the weight when it starts to move. That's where the 4 lb hammer pull comes from. It's all repeatable numbers.
In my experience, they tend to run anywhere from 6 lbs to 9lbs+ . . . 2nd Gen Colt's are all over the place. Just checked two 2nd Gens . . . '60 Army is 8 lbs, Walker is 7lbs.
Measuring just gives me an idea of how much "dressing " I'll need to do to get to 4lbs.
Mike
Why half cock?
Can't get the hook on with the hammer all the way down.
Tension remains constant throughout the pull from half cock.
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Gunsmithing/Parts & Repairs/Refinishing / Re: Measuring mainspring strength
« on: March 21, 2024, 11:56:29 AM »
I've always measured from half cock. I hook my scale under the nose of the hammer and check the weight when it starts to move. That's where the 4 lb hammer pull comes from. It's all repeatable numbers.
In my experience, they tend to run anywhere from 6 lbs to 9lbs+ . . . 2nd Gen Colt's are all over the place. Just checked two 2nd Gens . . . '60 Army is 8 lbs, Walker is 7lbs.
Measuring just gives me an idea of how much "dressing " I'll need to do to get to 4lbs.
Mike
In my experience, they tend to run anywhere from 6 lbs to 9lbs+ . . . 2nd Gen Colt's are all over the place. Just checked two 2nd Gens . . . '60 Army is 8 lbs, Walker is 7lbs.
Measuring just gives me an idea of how much "dressing " I'll need to do to get to 4lbs.
Mike
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Gunsmithing/Parts & Repairs/Refinishing / Re: Looking back at the problem
« on: March 08, 2024, 07:14:31 AM »
No, it's closer to Dawsonville. My son's father-in-law is a member there.
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Army Models / Re: Damage to 1860 sheriff
« on: March 08, 2024, 05:46:27 AM »
[quote ]
Mike, howdy. sort of like gently sanding the rear of the bolt (Rounding it off where it contacts the cylinder) so to speak? Makes good sense.
[/quote]
Yes . . . well it will take a while if done gently!!
A Dremel flex shaft mounted in a vice with a 1/2" sanding drum will allow quicker sanding and you can control it very easily.
Mike, howdy. sort of like gently sanding the rear of the bolt (Rounding it off where it contacts the cylinder) so to speak? Makes good sense.
[/quote]
Yes . . . well it will take a while if done gently!!
A Dremel flex shaft mounted in a vice with a 1/2" sanding drum will allow quicker sanding and you can control it very easily.
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Army Models / Re: Damage to 1860 sheriff
« on: March 06, 2024, 06:09:06 PM »[/quote]
If the bolt is riding to far to the rear of the notch what would be the fix for this?
[/quote]
Remove material from the rear of the head of the bolt.
Mike
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Gunsmithing/Parts & Repairs/Refinishing / Re: Looking back at the problem
« on: March 05, 2024, 01:46:10 PM »A little off topic, but since we started...the reason I went with the 427 was when Ford further developed that motor to run at LeMans, they ran one at 7,000 rpm FOR 24 HOURS STRAIGHT. At that point they knew they could beat Ferrari and did for several years straight.
Yes!! What really gets me is Ford came out with a new "Flat crank" V8 for the Mustang and they were true beasts!! Only to drop that engine after 3 maybe 4 yrs and put a freekin turbo V6 in the F40!!!! What he hell?!!!!
There's a track (road course) near me that folks go run their Porches, Lambos, Ferrari's at ( storage facility as well). When that flat crank stang goes out , they all get out of his way !!! I'd love to have one !!!
Mike
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Gunsmithing/Parts & Repairs/Refinishing / Re: Looking back at the problem
« on: March 05, 2024, 11:08:45 AM »hot rod guns / hot rod cars . . . always was . . . always will be !!
Mike just so you understand I appreciate those type of guns and cars. For years my daily driver was a 1967 Shelby GT 500 that I installed a Nascar 427 Tunnel Port. I still own another 1967 GT350 with the small block 289. Guess I'm getting a little older.
I totally understand. I'm just coming from a customer position that has always wanted an easier hammer draw which is more conducive for faster times/handling , especially if the thumbs are a little arthritic. Likewise, the vast majority of "casual shooters" like the "race ready" revolvers for the "ease of operation" it offers. That means other ways to combat cap problems which introduces cap posts, action shields . . . which are passive as far as shooter operation. So, 95 +% of my customers want that as opposed to heavy hammers, hoping frags won't/can't get into the action anyway blah blah . . .
As for cars . . . I grew up tuning cars at my across the street neighbor's garage. Engine swaps, carb rebuilds, brakes, . . . pretty much anything a customer needed we pretty much did. The range of cars was anything GM, the occasional Dodge / Chrysler ( if it was a neighbor !! Lol) but, he wouldn't touch a Ford !! So, my automotive upbringing is why I am lacking in the Ford dept. I remember seeing Cobras ( real ones!) around town, the first 'Stangs and 'Cudas . . . (always loved the Cougars hidden headlights!!)
My cars ranged from a '64VW Bug, '76 Vega that ended up with a 3.8 Buick 6, a 280 Z ( 2+2 "family" car) with a 350 Olds, several trucks, back to cars with several BMW's with one of which I still run around in, an '88 535 that'll still sh *t an get ( it's not all "factory" stuff) !! Definitely still fun for an old guy !!!
Mike
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Army Models / Re: Damage to 1860 sheriff
« on: March 05, 2024, 07:55:45 AM »I took it apart and found the hand spring was to tight. It pushed the cylinder forward. Now the cylinder turns and fits the bolt . The revolver shoots well. I really like this shooter.
The hand is supposed to push the cylinder forward. The tension it imparts supplies the braking force needed to keep throw-by from happening. You should have .003" - .004" endshake to maintain ignition reliability. It looks like the bolt is riding too far to the rear of the notch ( that allows throw-by as well), it should track in the middle ( slightly forward of middle is ok).
Mike
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Gunsmithing/Parts & Repairs/Refinishing / Re: Looking back at the problem
« on: March 01, 2024, 08:13:29 PM »
Thanks Cap !!!!
Totally understand sir!!! I do get a couple or 3 customers a year wanting a flat spring tune with no cap post. Those are most of the time original revolvers but I do have a customer that has a shooter original that he wanted the full Outlaw Mule ( coils, action shield, adjustable wedge bearing, bolt block, action stop) done to it. It had no finish left on it but my fire blued screws really stood out !! He liked it too and decided to NOT send it to Turnbull for a total refinish . . . at least not yet!!
So, there's room for everybody and all tastes. I will say though, there were "tuners" back then as well so a "slicked up" 6 shooter wouldn't be out of place . . . hot rod guns / hot rod cars . . . always was . . . always will be !!
Well Mike, I may as well just copy Hawg's reply to your question for the most part. Since I consider modern caps as the real problem, I don't care to modify the guns. I am even a long time avid Cowboy shooter, but one who approaches things from an historical standpoint. However, I don't shoot the percussion pistols exclusively. With the already mentioned attention each gun receives, cap jams are not frequent. Admittedly, though, right in the middle of a Cowboy Match is not the time to be experiencing a cap jam! I fully agree that a light, smooth action is a joy to use, but if a heavier mainspring will almost eliminate those last few cap jams(on the few guns so prone), so be it. Since I don't participate in Cowboy matches worrying about my final Match Standing, what makes me happy is a nice clean presentation as close to period correct as reasonable.
I just saw on another site where someone is approaching the modern cap problem by making his own thicker caps on a 3-D printer! So far no report on how they are working. I would be willing to accept caps made of a different material since the modern cap manufacturers don't seem inclined to address the issue.
Totally understand sir!!! I do get a couple or 3 customers a year wanting a flat spring tune with no cap post. Those are most of the time original revolvers but I do have a customer that has a shooter original that he wanted the full Outlaw Mule ( coils, action shield, adjustable wedge bearing, bolt block, action stop) done to it. It had no finish left on it but my fire blued screws really stood out !! He liked it too and decided to NOT send it to Turnbull for a total refinish . . . at least not yet!!
So, there's room for everybody and all tastes. I will say though, there were "tuners" back then as well so a "slicked up" 6 shooter wouldn't be out of place . . . hot rod guns / hot rod cars . . . always was . . . always will be !!
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Gunsmithing/Parts & Repairs/Refinishing / Re: Looking back at the problem
« on: March 01, 2024, 12:10:00 PM »Yeah well. At least I'm consistent.
[/quote]
For sure!!
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Gunsmithing/Parts & Repairs/Refinishing / Re: Looking back at the problem
« on: March 01, 2024, 11:09:26 AM »Just curious, what are some reasons for not using cap posts? The reason I ask is that it appears "cap jams", "cap sucking" is a more modern problem than when these revolvers were "cutting edge". If that is the case, a modern fix ( cap post) for a modern problem doesn't seem to be that far "out of line"
For me I want the experience to be as close as I can get it to what it was like back in the day. A cap post would deprive me of that pleasure as would modding internal parts. No I can't see the internal parts when I'm shooting it but I would know they were there. I don't consider stoning internal parts modding but bolt blocks, action stops etc. ain't gonna cut it with me. Besides I don't get enough cap jams to even bother worrying about it. I get the occasional cap stuck to the hammer or stuck on the nipple like it was welded on but that's about it. I don't like short barrels even tho there were a few that were cut off historically. There weren't enough of them for it to be anywhere near a common thing. I don't like birds head grips or Rugers either. Well you asked.
Hawgie, I think we all knew what your post would be!!!
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Gunsmithing/Parts & Repairs/Refinishing / Re: Looking back at the problem
« on: March 01, 2024, 08:58:01 AM »
Just curious, what are some reasons for not using cap posts? The reason I ask is that it appears "cap jams", "cap sucking" is a more modern problem than when these revolvers were "cutting edge". If that is the case, a modern fix ( cap post) for a modern problem doesn't seem to be that far "out of line". I've had cowboy shooters shoot over 160 rounds over a 3 day match with no cap jams and no disassembly with just a wipe down at the end of each day.
The originals heavier mains are ( to me anyway) a starting point. The "so it won't blow the hammer back" is a plausible argument and I think that is an acceptable statement. After all, these were war machines for the most part.
Today, they aren't. They are typically used and setup for competition timed events which favors lighter springs for faster operation. The average Joe that is looking for fun shooting/ hobby shooting/ hunting would rather not have to repair the revolver after each outing like many of us did back when we started ('70's for me) . . . The lighter mains definitely make for more pleasant operation and much less thumb fatigue!! If a cap post is installed, the hammer won't go further back than the post since the post blocks the cap hull which is being blown back probably from a too large hole in the cone.
If you're going to use a heavy main, it'll just beat up the cones faster unless you set it up "safe for dry firing" which means the arbor correction is even more necessary so the cylinder can't move out of range for cap detonation.
So, the "best of both worlds" can definitely be reality but dedication to design build is key.
Mike
Ps I saw the video after I posted. I don't think the hammer moves back far enough for the cap to be deposited in the action. I DO think the blowback forces the cap hulls into the safety notch and then falls free ( shaken free while cycling) and can fall.
The originals heavier mains are ( to me anyway) a starting point. The "so it won't blow the hammer back" is a plausible argument and I think that is an acceptable statement. After all, these were war machines for the most part.
Today, they aren't. They are typically used and setup for competition timed events which favors lighter springs for faster operation. The average Joe that is looking for fun shooting/ hobby shooting/ hunting would rather not have to repair the revolver after each outing like many of us did back when we started ('70's for me) . . . The lighter mains definitely make for more pleasant operation and much less thumb fatigue!! If a cap post is installed, the hammer won't go further back than the post since the post blocks the cap hull which is being blown back probably from a too large hole in the cone.
If you're going to use a heavy main, it'll just beat up the cones faster unless you set it up "safe for dry firing" which means the arbor correction is even more necessary so the cylinder can't move out of range for cap detonation.
So, the "best of both worlds" can definitely be reality but dedication to design build is key.
Mike
Ps I saw the video after I posted. I don't think the hammer moves back far enough for the cap to be deposited in the action. I DO think the blowback forces the cap hulls into the safety notch and then falls free ( shaken free while cycling) and can fall.