Colt Country | Home of The Almighty Colt

1st model Dragoon,
when you cock the hammer with any vigor the cylinder tends to over rotate past the next chamber
not every time but often enough to be annoying, it is fine when you cock it slowly
is this common with oval bolt Walkers and early dragoons?
there is quite a bit of rearward hammer travel left after lockup should occur, allowing the hand to continue rotating the cylinder if the bolt does not drop into the notch
also the bolt does not appear to have very much engagement into the cylinder notch, it protrudes approximately 30-35 thou above the frame, and the notches in the cylinder measure 60 thousands deep, it looks as though someone filed down the bolt for some reason and when it is at half cock the bolt is approx 40 thou below the opening in the frame, cylinder to frame gap when assembled is 6-8 thou with a feeler gauge
my thought is to fit a new bolt, and/or attempt to limit the hammer travel, any thoughts?

asking $280 in like new condition, looks like it has never been fired, i am tempted, but broke 
it's a Uberti, and I can pick up a new Uberti Walker for $350 out the door of a local shop,
must resist urge to impulse buy new revolver, if it is still there on Fri, I am a goner

top one is a USGI that has had the property marks removed and been reblued
I dont shoot it much due to the untempered slide, and when I do it is usually with mild loads
185gr or 200gr and trailboss, cycles fine and doesnt hurt the soft slide
or I top it with a Ceiner 22LR kit and shoot it till the sun goes down (or I get hungry)
the bottom one is a Government Model that someone converted to 1911A1 spec and parkerized,
it has an arched ribbed mainspring housing, short ribbed trigger, and post war (aprox 1946 - 1948)
tempered and heat treated modern "hard" slide, so it is my fake GI shooter,
only thing I changed was to replace the 1917 barrel with a new semi drop in from Colt
not much collector value on either of them, and that is just fine with me, (and I got em cheap enough)