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I've only found RWS 1075 caps once many years ago, before the Slix Shot nipples became available. They worked fine on factory nipples then. I would like to have "practice time" cap for now and save my Remington #10s for Cowboy matches. All my current guns have Slix Shots, so I would be interested to see how the RWS caps would work with them.

Good afternoon everybody.
I'm running out of caps and I didn't find the answer if RWS 1075s fit and work well with the Slix Shot nipples.  Do they?
Thanks,
Steamburn

Why do guys even buy contra-historic brass guns, especially those forty-fours?  I don’t get it.

GDog,
I agree with you, but my intention is to shoot the heck out of it to see if the brassers are as bad as they say.
This is a .36 cal, so I think I might be for a very long run until it starts failing.

Today is Thursday and yes, I went to the range to test my new 1858 Navy brasser.
Using a two hand hold, at 10 yrds, I got a 3 inch grouping, 3 inches to the right and 6 inches low.  Now to file gradually and carefully the front sight until it hits bulls eye.  For windage I'll have to tap the front sight to the right a miniscule amount.

I used about 36 cartridges I had made, with 15 gr of FFF.  Because the frame is the same as the .44 Army, the ram, that was originally a .44 ram, is reduced at the tip to .33" for only .42", and using only 15 gr of BP plus a wax/crisco, the travel of the ram is marginal on pushing the ball all the way down.  Later on, I loaded 18 gr and that gave enough fill in the chambers to counter the limitation of the ram.

Am I happy with it?  yes and no.  Because it is a .44 Army frame, the Navy weighs (2lbs 13oz), more than my .44 Army (2lbs 11 oz).  That's a bummer.  I think I'll have to get the Colt 1851 Navy, that I presume weighs less (If somebody may provide the answer, I would appreciate it).

On the positive side, it is a precise shooter.  I just have to make it accurate too.

It is a keeper.

Now comes the task of washing it

By the way, I pushed in a ball into one of the chambers, and then pushed it out an gave me a diameter of .3670".  (I'll have to get a set of internal diameter gauges for the future).

Thank you Navy6.  Found them in Amazon....$22/5lbs.
I have been using a mix 50/50 of Beeswax and Crisco for quite few years and have tested it for longevity in paper cartridges.  IIRC, the max I have left them is 3 months and at the end of the period I tested them and found no problems.  Maybe the formulas that have liquid oil are the perceived problem.

So much talk about brassers, that I pulled the trigger on a Taylor 1858 in .36.
This is going to hurt my budget big time, but as Marylin Monroe said "What the hell, is always the right decision".
Next one (in a distant future), will be a 1851 Navy brasser.

Super welcome!!!

Today I made quite a lot of .36 and .44 cal wax cookies.
I use a modified Gatofeo recipe:  50% bee's wax, 50% Crisco.  Nothing more.  The original Gatofeo has so many component that only black pepper and oregano are missing.
I have used these cookies with great success since I started shooting Cap and Balls.  I place them between the powder and the lead, and if you ask, yes, I left one cylinder loaded for a very long time and there was no problem with the wax fouling the black powder; and I don't put any messy Crisco on top of the ball.
I found out that if I use 1 oz of the wax/Crisco mix and let it melt and float on top of hot water in a pot that is around 6 1/4" in diameter, once the system cools down, it gives me a disk that is exactly 1/8" thick.
I cut the .36 cockies with a .38 Special shell, and the .44 cookies with a 6.5x55 cal shell with the neck cut off below the shoulder.
I store the cookies in a small Tupperware filled with cornmeal, so they don't stick to each other.