1851 Uberti London Navy

[r5868]

Ordered it on March 9 and told it would be two to three weeks for it to come from Sydney. After two weeks rang every week to find out where it was. Finally, after six weeks it turned up. So far have opened the box, tried the action, popped the wedge to check arbor length (1-2mm short) and reassembled it and put it in the safe. Saturday's job will be to strip and thoroughly clean it. Unfortunately the LGS was out of .375 balls when I picked it up so can't fire it until I get the balls to do so.

It looks good and tight. Can't find any marks on it yet.

[StrawHat]

Uberti's tend to prefer a .380 round ball to seal the chambers.  Pietta's like the smaller ones. 

Kevin

[mike116]

.375 RB falls right out of my Uberti .36s.   Get .380 if you can find them.

[r5868]

Thanks for the replies. I just measured the bore of the chambers and it is more than .375 so .380 balls it is. Good thing I didn't buy the .375s.

[Hawg]

You will also want to fix the short arbor so it doesn't beat the wedge to death.

[r5868]

Hawg, I've downloaded the instructions on how to do it. Just need to find someone with a workshop to accurately drill a hole in the centre of the arbor. All the rest I can do myself.

[r5868]

Couldn't wait until Saturday. Stripped it down and cleaned it. Had heaps of trouble removing some of the screws. Must have been put in with a torque driver or just frozen in during storage. Ended up having to tap the end of the screwdriver with a small hammer to loosen them.





The only external damage appears to be a scrape mark on the side of the hammer. Smoothed the side of the frame to stop it getting worse.



Had heaps of trouble getting the hammer and hand out and, when I did, noticed the hand had very rough edges so filed them smooth. Then had even more trouble getting the hand back in. Found that there was a ridge where the hand enters its slot. More filing and now it goes it Probably needs more work to get it to slip in instead of having to be levered in with a probe.

Here is the couple of mm that the arbor is short.



However any more work will have to wait as we are off for six week holiday in Canada and the US next week.

[Captainkirk]

Very nice piece!

[LonesomePigeon]

Nice. I like the gold in the case colors.

"Found that there was a ridge where the hand enters its slot." Yes I have a CN 2015 production Uberti regular Navy(not London) and it has the same ridge.

Also the cut out in the base of the arbor was not deep enough to allow the hand to come up all the way unless the cylinder was on. With the cylinder on the hand would move ok because the cylinder was pushing the hand back. But with the cylinder off the hand would get stuck and you could not get the hammer to go past half cock. I took a dremel and made the cut out bigger and now it works fine.

On the plus side the timing seems good, the trigger is nice and it shoots almost perfect to point of aim, maybe 2 inches high at 25 yards.

[r5868]

Been hunting through all of the local suppliers and no one stocks .380 balls. Normal brands available are Hornady and Speers but they only make .375s. Looks like I'll have to buy a mold and cast my own.

[45 Dragoon]

The arbor is probably shorter than the 2mm (That test isn't reliable). I would suggest shimming the arbor hole rather than adding to the end arbor. You'll want to "tap" (really TAP!! Like seating!!) the wedge in and out (just like Colts original instructions) so you can maintain a proper, repeatable revolver assy. This will also make your accuracy repeatable.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

[r5868]

I would suggest shimming the arbor hole rather than adding to the end arbor.

Mike, how would you suggest this shimming be done. Where and how are the shims placed?

Kerry

[ssb73q]

I would suggest shimming the arbor hole rather than adding to the end arbor.

Mike, how would you suggest this shimming be done. Where and how are the shims placed?

Kerry

Hi Kerry, while Mike's solution may be the best, I prefer adding either brass washers or a machined brass shim on to the end of the arbor. Digging a wrongly sized shim out of the opening in the barrel can be problematic. Changing or totally removing brass shims epoxy on the arbor end is easy peasy. Brass has almost the same compressive strength as mild steel (the revolver is mild steel) and is easy to work with a file. All my Uberti Colts get the brass shim on the arbor end. To date, I haven't noticed any change in cylinder/barrel gap after shooting many many rounds. You may want to visit this thread:

http://blackpowdersmoke.com/colt/index.php?topic=1500.0

and here:

http://blackpowdersmoke.com/colt/index.php?topic=1567.msg14669#msg14669

Regards,
Richard

[45 Dragoon]

The way I do it is to find my shim stack needed to give me the barrel/cyl clearance (I use .002" for that clearance). No need to be super picky about the "exact" thickness of the stack (or you can cut a piece of rod to length if you have suitable stock), you can dress the end of the arbor down to "zero in" the clearance needed if the shim/shimming is slightly too thick.  I say this so you want spend so much time getting the shims/shim "just right"  (it can drive some folks nuts!!!).

When you're satisfied with your stack, degrease the arbor hole,  lube the arbor, use a little grease on the end of the arbor to hold the first shim of the stack in place. Now, a tiny bit of JBweld on the shim and put the next shim in place. Follow suit with the rest of the stack and on the last shim, put a generous amount of JB to fill out the end of the arbor hole.
Carefully assemble the revolver (including the cylinder) and tap the wedge FIRMLY in place.
I use the JB quick product so 10 mins later I can disassemble the revolver and inspect/ clean up every thing. Then re-assemble and check bbl/cyl clearance. If needed you can add a shim and/or dress the arbor to "zero in" on the clearance desired.

 It sounds like a lot (written out) but it's a quick way to get it done when you have several to do at a time.

Also, the other reason I bring the bottom of the hole up to meet the arbor,  It leaves the arbor free to drill (where you were going to anyway) the end, thread it and install a set screw which will become the bearing surface for the WEDGE to push against. That means it does NOT stick out past the end of the arbor (that would interfere with the spacing you just did!!)
The set screw, ground flat so as not to dig into the wedge is just an adjustable bearing that will allow you to "customize" the placement/ fitting of the wedge to suit your needs. You may want the wedge in further (to clear holsters easier) or you may want to maintain a "like new" (just through the off side) position. As the parts wear/set, you can maintain position and use of the same wedge for the life of the revolver. I use a 1/4" set screw and steel for the shims by the way.

Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks

[45 Dragoon]

Not problematic at all Richard,  just drive it on in (hopefully it won't loosen up if it's the only shim being used) or if more shims are needed, continue with the "normal" install and the JB will hold everything anyway. For fine tuning the clearance, dress the arbor accordingly. Now, at least, you've learned to scribe the shim stock and cut it out with CARE !! (Lol!!)


Mike
www.goonsgunworks.com
Follow me on Instagram @ goonsgunworks