Re: 1858 Antique Finish Drop in Cylinder Conversion

[Zulch]

Question. Will you antique the new cylinder to match the gun?

Inquiring minds want to know.

good question Dave. I've looked around for cylinders but cylinders in antiqued finish seemed to be non existent. The gun is a Taylor's/Uberti so I thought..hmmmm??? So i went to Taylor's and they have one in antique finish. Will it match up? not sure. It's a start. I would appreciate others opinions and advice on the conversion of this gun. I know some of you out there have made previous comments before and have already seen these pictures. I appreciate your thoughts once again if you so desire to.

[Zulch]

Question. Will you antique the new cylinder to match the gun?

Inquiring minds want to know.

IIRC, he said Taylor's had one to match?

Roger that Cap

[Marshal Will]

Marshal, Hi, yes, that is the plan. Any thoughts sir?
I don't know if this thread here will suffice as a unique thread for the Remington in question but I started this one awhile back. Let me know Dave if I need to start a new one instead.
https://coltcountryforum.com/index.php/topic,4684.0.html

That's a good plan.

The R&D (What Taylors offers) is a good choice. They're easy to remove and put back in. They hold a full 6 cartridges, too. Also, I see Taylor's lists one with an antique finish. It may match nicely or require little effort to make it match.

The Kirst Pale Rider conversion is a little quicker to put in but they have a thick back plate and only hold 5 with a narrow dead space 'empty chamber' for CAS shooting. Of course, you could always grind a loading channel and notch the back plate (or get a gated back plate) at some time in the future if you decide to do so.

[Zulch]

Marshal, Hi, yes, that is the plan. Any thoughts sir?
I don't know if this thread here will suffice as a unique thread for the Remington in question but I started this one awhile back. Let me know Dave if I need to start a new one instead.
https://coltcountryforum.com/index.php/topic,4684.0.html

That's a good plan.

The R&D (What Taylors offers) is a good choice. They're easy to remove and put back in. They hold a full 6 cartridges, too. Also, I see Taylor's lists one with an antique finish. It may match nicely or require little effort to make it match.

The Kirst Pale Rider conversion is a little quicker to put in but they have a thick back plate and only hold 5 with a narrow dead space 'empty chamber' for CAS shooting. Of course, you could always grind a loading channel and notch the back plate (or get a gated back plate) at some time in the future if you decide to do so.

Marshal, thank you for your input. This would be my first ever drop in cylinder experience so the more detail the better. I take it that you have done this before. :-)

[G Dog]

Great photos, Zulch.  I'd consider that Rem too pretty to part with.  The finish on that one really rings my bells.

IIRC you just recently got that and paid a goodly amount.  Have you had it out for a shoot yet? My suggestion would be to keep it; shoot it; buy it a conversion.

[Zulch]

Great photos, Zulch.  I'd consider that Rem too pretty to part with.  The finish on that one really rings my bells.

IIRC you just recently got that and paid a goodly amount.  Have you had it out for a shoot yet? My suggestion would be to keep it; shoot it; buy it a conversion.

G. Thank you. You're memory is very good. Yes, I did purchase last spring and never have shot it. I seriously thought of parting with it but had never considered a conversion cylinder. I know that probably isn't the best reason but for some reason it rekindled something there. I've been so enamored with the Colt that I plum near forgot about this here Remington. Somebody oughta get a rope after me. Smokeless appeals to my lazy side. Less frequent cleanup primarily but I'm also up for an education on the "ins and outs" of smokeless powder versus the Black cartridge loading. Capt. Kirk has given me a little lesson regarding that but I would love to hear more on it. Feel free to tell me more. I'm interested and thank you G.   

[Marshal Will]

Marshal, thank you for your input. This would be my first ever drop in cylinder experience so the more detail the better. I take it that you have done this before. :-)

Yep. Guilty.

Regarding shooting smokeless through it, I read a test done by some magazine one time and they put full boat smokeless 45 loads through one of the Italian copies with a conversion cylinder. After about 100 rounds, the frame was measurably stretching so be careful what you put through it. The cylinders will take pretty much anything you like but the frame is the weakest point. Follow CAS loading data. Trail boss is popular for conversions because it is a slow burning powder and easier on the frame. It burns a little dirty and requires cleaning more frequently but it's not as corrosive as BP.

[Zulch]

Marshal, thank you for your input. This would be my first ever drop in cylinder experience so the more detail the better. I take it that you have done this before. :-)

Yep. Guilty.

Regarding shooting smokeless through it, I read a test done by some magazine one time and they put full boat smokeless 45 loads through one of the Italian copies with a conversion cylinder. After about 100 rounds, the frame was measurably stretching so be careful what you put through it. The cylinders will take pretty much anything you like but the frame is the weakest point. Follow CAS loading data. Trail boss is popular for conversions because it is a slow burning powder and easier on the frame. It burns a little dirty and requires cleaning more frequently but it's not as corrosive as BP.

Marshal, You've given me much to think about. That's good. I appreciate your thought's experience and insight. So, as the good Capt. mentioned you would load much less smokeless in the cartridges but you have to be real careful and (exacting, my word not his)? The frame seems to be the main concern and a good concern at that. I certainly don't want to ruin this revolver!! Somaybe I need to suck it up and chunk my lazy ways and just be ready to clean. The other part of all this is that I have never even broken this gun down. Still even has factory grease. Guess I need to read up on the procedures and get my feet wet. :-) I certainly thank you for taking time t share your time and experience with me. That's what makes this forum nice to me. A lot of good guys willing to share. Sorry, didn't mean to sound like a testimonial commercial. Thanks my friend.

[Marshal Will]

Glad to help, Z. You want to take it apart and clean the factory grease out of it and re-assemble it with oil or whatever is suitable for the powder you'll be using.

It isn't hard or time consuming. Do it once and you'll have it forever.

When you have it apart, you can remove a considerable amount of the spring, provided you won't be using it for percussion afterwards. Careful to not overheat the spring. do it with gloves on so you can feel when it starts to heat up then cool it off before continuing. Also, no scratches across the spring or it can break on you one day. Any grinding or Dremeling should be done lengthwise.


If you intend to do both, then leave the spring and just back off the adjustment screw in the front of the grip frame some to lighten the spring tension. If it consistently fires all the primers, you have enough tension.

[G Dog]

[G Dog]

I nominate #'s 24 & 25 as stickies.

[Hawg]

Do you reload Z? If not you might want to check prices and availability of "cowboy" .45 Colt cartridges.

[45 Dragoon]

And .  .  .  I use Titegroup which isn't position sensitive. I would recommend it if you can find any.

Mike

[Zulch]

Glad to help, Z. You want to take it apart and clean the factory grease out of it and re-assemble it with oil or whatever is suitable for the powder you'll be using.

It isn't hard or time consuming. Do it once and you'll have it forever.

When you have it apart, you can remove a considerable amount of the spring, provided you won't be using it for percussion afterwards. Careful to not overheat the spring. do it with gloves on so you can feel when it starts to heat up then cool it off before continuing. Also, no scratches across the spring or it can break on you one day. Any grinding or Dremeling should be done lengthwise.


If you intend to do both, then leave the spring and just back off the adjustment screw in the front of the grip frame some to lighten the spring tension. If it consistently fires all the primers, you have enough tension.

Marshal Will, Hey. Thanks for the video. Very easy to follow. Doesn't look to awful difficult. I'm thinking that I may would like to go back and forth with cylinders. So I should leave the spring as is as you said. So here's one for you. I've never owned a drop in. So, when using a drop in it seems that you must remove it after your 6 rounds have fired. Does the back of the cylinder come off so you can easily remove the spent cartridges? I guess a small punch or pencil for pushing cartridges out is in order? So hear comes the question. I've been thinking, would it just be simpler for me to shoot BP and round ball since if I make black powder charged cartridges what am I gaining? You still have to clean the lil bugger. I get in trouble when I think too much. Just ask Dave. Seriously, is there a difference to you seasoned vets that I am missing here?  Regardless of which route I go, bottom line, I will be keeping this gun. The video you sent made the gray areas of disassembly much more clear to me. I really appreciate that.

[Zulch]

Do you reload Z? If not you might want to check prices and availability of "cowboy" .45 Colt cartridges.

Hawg, thanks man. At this point I do not reload. Will I in the future. Not sure just yet. I appreciate the point to the cowboy .45 Colt cartridge