Ordered a new Uberti 1849 Wells Fargo

[ssb73q]

Hi, after coming up the learning curve with my new Uberti 1849 and investing in support material for it, it seemed logical to get its buddy, the 1949 Wells Fargo. Cabellas has them on sale with free shipping. This will give me a extra cap and ball cylinder and will allow use of my Taylor .32 S&W conversion cylinder. Boy oh boy, do I love Christmas time!!

Regards,
Richard

[jaxenro]

Why won't anyone make a conversion cylinder for the 36 pockets? If they can do them for the 1860 Army they should be able to do them for these

[ssb73q]

Why won't anyone make a conversion cylinder for the 36 pockets? If they can do them for the 1860 Army they should be able to do them for these

Hi jaxenro, would these work:
http://www.taylorsfirearms.com/cartridge-conversions/1851-1861-navy-conversion-cylinders.html

Regards,
Richard

[StrawHat]

Why won't anyone make a conversion cylinder for the 36 pockets? If they can do them for the 1860 Army they should be able to do them for these

Hi jaxenro, would these work:
http://www.taylorsfirearms.com/cartridge-conversions/1851-1861-navy-conversion-cylinders.html

Regards,
Richard

Unless I am mistaken, the conversion jaxenro wants is for the little 5 shot 36s, those are for the 36 caliber six shooters.

There just is not enough room on that little cylinder to allow the cartridge chambers to be cut properly.  The chambers would interfere or obliterate the star ratchet.

[jaxenro]

yup the little 5 shots - Colt made a lot of them back in the day as conversions

[ssb73q]

Hi, I got the Uberti 1849 Wells Fargo from Cabelas today. This revolver didn't have the grime and grit of the 1849 Pocket purchased a few weeks ago, but the fit and finish is not great. The base pin has a bend in it near the barrel wedge hole and getting the wedge to start requires me putting the muzzle down on a table and pushing with all my might until the wedge begins lining up. Once started, the wedge can be easily tapped in to produce the correct cylinder/barrel gap. Until I figured out how to start the wedge, the Wells Fargo was getting very close to being returned for refund.

The timing for both the 32 S&W conversion cylinder and cap and ball cylinder seems OK. Tomorrow I will shoot the Wells Fargo using the conversion cylinder.

Regards,
Richard

[StrawHat]

...Once started, the wedge can be easily tapped in to produce the correct cylinder/barrel gap...

Regards,
Richard

Richard,

The wedge is not used to adjust the cylinder gap.  The arbor should bottom out in the barrel hole and that adjusts the gap.

[ssb73q]

Hi, I got the Uberti 1849 Wells Fargo from Cabelas today. This revolver didn't have the grime and grit of the 1849 Pocket purchased a few weeks ago, but the fit and finish is not great. The base pin has a bend in it near the barrel wedge hole and getting the wedge to start requires me putting the muzzle down on a table and pushing with all my might until the wedge begins lining up. Once started, the wedge can be easily tapped in to produce the correct cylinder/barrel gap. Until I figured out how to start the wedge, the Wells Fargo was getting very close to being returned for refund.

The timing for both the 32 S&W conversion cylinder and cap and ball cylinder seems OK. Tomorrow I will shoot the Wells Fargo using the conversion cylinder.

Regards,
Richard

Hi, I shot my new Uberti 1849 Wells Fargo with the 32 S&W conversion cylinder today in my basement. The ammo used were handloads (78gr 0.313" Laser Cast bullets with 1.5gr Trail Boss power). While this is not the prettiest 1949, it shoots great. Shooting two hands from 7yds first shot was ~4" high. Based on what I saw, I aimed the next 4 shots 1" higher. The 4-shot group was ~1/2". Ok, you think I'm blowing smoke? Then look:



After seeing that group, where could I go, but quit shooting, go upstairs, and celebrate. This 1849 Wells Fargo may be an ugly duckling, but it shoots great!

Regards,
Richard

[StrawHat]

Fixing the arbor.

http://www.theopenrange.net/articles/Tuning_the_Uberti_Open_Top_Revolvers_Part_3.pdf

[ssb73q]

...Once started, the wedge can be easily tapped in to produce the correct cylinder/barrel gap...

Regards,
Richard

Richard,

The wedge is not used to adjust the cylinder gap.  The arbor should bottom out in the barrel hole and that adjusts the gap.

Hi Strawhat, you are absolutely correct. I was making assumptions based on other experience with some previous replica Colts. I studied the link on Colt arbor setup (part 3) that you gave me and the next one, part 4. I then examined my two new 1849 revolvers and found that they were pretty well regulated, the arbor bottoms almost exactly where they should. In fact, the arbor of the Wells Fargo is a few thousandths too long and has a barrel/cylinder gap larger than the other 1849 (one with loading lever). Maybe that's why it was so tough getting the wedge to begin to go in? IMO the Wells Fargo 1849 could have its arbor shortened a couple of thousandths to close up the gap some.

After shooting the Wells Fargo today, the barrel wedge can now be started easily with finger pressure and then tapped into position with a small block of wood. Tapping the wedge with half a clothespin and wood block easily removes the wedge. I like the wedge design of the 1849s better than the 1851 or 1860 in that the retaining screw of the 1849 really keeps the wedge from falling out. It's too easy to accidentally pop out a wedge from the 1851/1860 where it is a PITA to reinstall it.

Regards,
Richard

[Kaboom]

Hey, this is where I found that great link. Looks like I'm going to be working on the arbor as well as the bolt notches and bolt width. Thanks so much for that great link, I really need it. Now to get everything together and make my baby play pretty.

[StrawHat]

The links are helpful.  Pettifogger has been able to condense to writing what a lot of us learned through trial and error.  Many thanks to him.

I view the C&B replicas as merely assembled kits.  There is still some work to be done on them.  Some, more than others.

[ssb73q]

Hi, I measured the cylinder/barrel gap of my two Uberti 1849 Pockets:

1849 (basic with loading lever) 0.005"
1849 Wells Fargo 0.010"

It looks like I can file ~0.005" off the Wells Fargo arbor for a better cylinder/barrel gap consistent with the basic 1849.

What's also an interesting difference about these two revolvers is that the basic 1849 arbor (base pin) has a concave end to aid off revolver cylinder loading and the 1849 Wells Fargo's arbor end is flat. That's just backwards from what it should be. While the serial number is identified on my pistol permit, it may be an interesting exercise to simply try swapping the barrels on these two revolvers?

Regards,
Richard

[Kaboom]

Hi, I measured the cylinder/barrel gap of my two Uberti 1849 Pockets:

1849 (basic with loading lever) 0.005"
1849 Wells Fargo 0.010"

It looks like I can file ~0.005" off the Wells Fargo arbor for a better cylinder/barrel gap consistent with the basic 1849.

What's also an interesting difference about these two revolvers is that the basic 1849 arbor (base pin) has a concave end to aid off revolver cylinder loading and the 1849 Wells Fargo's arbor end is flat. That's just backwards from what it should be. While the serial number is identified on my pistol permit, it may be an interesting exercise to simply try swapping the barrels on these two revolvers?

Regards,
Richard

I would hesitate to file the arbor right away because if the arbor is the right length, you will only tip the barrel back and jam things.  My new 1860 has a slightly short arbor and when I tap the wedge, it angles the barrel enough it hits the cylinder at the top yet leaves a 3-4 thou gap at the bottom.  I will need to do some work to extend the arbor to get a correct fit.  Check out the link above, it will tell you how to determine if the arbor is the right length, too short or too long.  My jaw dropped when I read it and checked the way he advised and yup, mine is too short by at least a sixteenth inch.  Only takes a minute and could avoid a possible slip-up.   

[ssb73q]

Hi Kaboom, I agree about waiting a while before shortening by filing anything. I'll shoot it some more and see if dimensions change. As far as your 1/16" issue, I would avoid machining on the arbor. IMO soft soldering a brass disk on the end of the arbor is easy to reverse if needed. Since there isn't any gun firing loading on the arbor end, soft solder should work just fine.

Regards,
Richard