Pietta brass frame

[Bob Dwyer]

Not sure if this is the proper place for this thread. Feel free to move it if you need to.

A gent I shoot with on occasion has a Pietta 1851 Navy brass frame revolver he bought several years ago but never fired. From what I read on this forum it's not really historically correct because it's a .44 caliber and has no roll engraving on the cylinder. Also it's been said that Colt never made a brass frame revolver, only confedrates and those were supposedly 36 caliber. Anyway, he offered it to me unfired for $85.00 with box and papers. Is this a good deal? I've read lots of posts saying to stay away from brass guns and others saying they are ok if you use reduced charges. What do you gents say?
Bob

[Lyle]

I would buy it for $85. I would also use a reduce charge of powder. The fun is in the shooting, not in the recoil.

[Captainkirk]

Unfired at $85.00? Run, Forrest! That gun will shoot all day long with max charges of 25gr 3f max, and will probably last you a lifetime. Don't exceed the 25gr limit. You'll probably find it shoots best around 20gr, you'll burn less powder, and recoil will be minuscule.

[Hawg]

I wouldn't go as high as 25. I almost ruined a .36 Remington with 25 grain charges. Personally I wont go over 15 grains in a brass frame.

[mike116]

For $85....   buy it.    Shoot 20 grains in it till you get tired of it and sell it for $125.

[Lyle]

I usually load 24g. I have tried 20g and didn’t notice much difference. Remember that the fun is shooting! If the fun was recoil then I would shoot my 44mag.

[sourdough]

Photos would be nice: datecode, manufacturer mark location, et al. Anything with a datecode earlier than BS/2002 would be a pre-CNC machined revolver, and as such newer CNC parts do not drop-in fit if needed. They need to be fitted, and sometimes that is a chore, especially the bolt.

Regards,

Jim

[Bob Dwyer]

Thanks, gents!
I'm still trying to get the hang of the photo thingamabob. Based on your responses, I'll probably buy it and plan on shooting 20gr or less. I've done the same with my '60 Army and found it to be very accurate with a 20gr charge. Sourdough, I will try to get the date code from my friend and maybe a photo or two as well. Thank you, gent for the responses. I hate missing out on a deal and didn't want to lose this one.
Bob

[Captainkirk]

Sorry, Bob...I need to clarify; Hawg is correct. When I mentioned 25gr I meant that as a MAX load, not one to be used on a regular basis! Hawg is correct that consistent hammering with max loads will hammer and stretch the frame, loosen the arbor through thread stretch, and imprint the recoil shield. Hawg has posted some pretty detailed pix in the past showing what CAN happen...but it need not if you stay within the safe limits. Hope this clarifies.

[ssb73q]

Hi Bob, jump on that deal. Most often the brass framed revolver has a slicker action than steel framed revolvers. The coefficient of friction is lower between brass on steel compared to steel on steel.

Regards,
Richard

[Fingers McGee]

Just to rehash what has been said already.  Great deal, keep your loads around 20 gr, who cares if it's not historically correct, enjoy the heck out of it.

[ShotgunDave]

Yep. What Fingers said.