The Infamous Uberti (and others) Short Arbor

[45 Dragoon]

Step 4.  Mounting the spacer.  Degrease the arbor hole and the spacer with some alcohol.
  Mix a small amount of 5 minute JB Weld. A little grease will hold the flat side of the spacer onto the end of the arbor (don't get any grease on the rounded part of the spacer!!).

[45 Dragoon]

Dabb  a little JB on the spacer and install the spacer by assembling the revolver.

[45 Dragoon]

After about 7/8 minutes, remove the barrel and clean up the grease and any flecks of JB.

[ssb73q]

Hi, no pro here. I used to do the method described by Dave, but used brass attached to the arbor end by JB-Weld. After having a couple of JB-Weld failures and not wanting to use soft solder, I redid my 17 Uberti and other short arbor revolvers by adding an adjusting setscrew to the arbor end. I drill and tap a 10-32 into the end of each gun arbor. Then an appropriate length 10-32 steel set screw is inserted in the arbor end. After adjusting the set screw for a BP gap (0.008", my choice to minimize fouling) some loctite is applied to the setscrew thread to prevent movement. If the cylinder gap ever needs to change (i.e. using conversion cylinder) it's easy to readjust the arbor length. If using red loctite, heat the arbor end, if blue loctite just make the adjustment.

I'm just an old wannabe amateur gunsmith so take my method with a grain of salt. 

Regards,
Richard

[Len]

Thank you guys, for eminent tutorials. Seems there are several ways to skin a flea

[ShotgunDave]

Thanks for posting your tutorial Mike. Your way is much simpler, and doesn't involve a torch. I like it! I also like that you use the rounded end of the screw to bottom out in the hole. As we know, that hole isn't square at the bottom. It's concave. Using the round end of the screw head gives you much more contact area.

[Miguel Loco]

I agree Dave. Thanks for posting this Mike!

[45 Dragoon]

Thanks for posting your tutorial Mike. Your way is much simpler, and doesn't involve a torch. I like it! I also like that you use the rounded end of the screw to bottom out in the hole. As we know, that hole isn't square at the bottom. It's concave. Using the round end of the screw head gives you much more contact area.

I agree Dave. Thanks for posting this Mike!

Thanks guys!!
 I've never had a problem with JB Weld but I have drilled out a SS spacer before and it surprised me at how tough it was !

 You are right Dave and that is exactly why I use those screw heads.
Tomorrow I'll show how I "fine tune" the endshake to get my final spec.

Mike

[Captainkirk]

Nice ideas, fellers!
I have just been doing it the "Simple Simon" method...stacking AN aircraft hardware washers and half (thickness) washers on the end of the arbor until I get an .002-.003 gap with a tight wedge. This method is quick and dirty but is totally reversible and takes only a minute or two to accomplish.

[Zulch]

After about 7/8 minutes, remove the barrel and clean up the grease and any flecks of JB.

Mike Thanks. I have an overthinking mind here . I think I followed you correctly in that the "flat side" of the screwhead is what makes contact with the arbor? rounded side bottoms out in the hole. So what I don't understand is why in the finished picture I see looks like the head of a Phillip's screw? Is it because as you grind the flat side it begins to reveal or show the slot markings from the head of the screw on the opposite side?  I told you I overthink  Thank you, Z

[45 Dragoon]

 

 Yessir!!! The thickness gets thin enough so that the  Philips's  bit access shows more and more  .  .  .  but, you can easily see the circular "witness mark"  of the arbor  on the spacer in the pic.

Good observation!!!

Mike

[Zulch]

 Yessir!!! The thickness gets thin enough so that the  Philips's  bit access shows more and more  .  .  .  but, you can easily see the circular "witness mark"  of the arbor  on the spacer in the pic.

Good observation!!!

Mike

Can I get a witness??!!!!  I finally see the witness!! Will miracles never cease?!!

[45 Dragoon]

 

Mike

[ShotgunDave]

Tomorrow I'll show how I "fine tune" the endshake to get my final spec.

Mike

I can't wait to see that Mike!

[Zulch]

Thanks for posting your tutorial Mike. Your way is much simpler, and doesn't involve a torch. I like it! I also like that you use the rounded end of the screw to bottom out in the hole. As we know, that hole isn't square at the bottom. It's concave. Using the round end of the screw head gives you much more contact area.

I agree Dave. Thanks for posting this Mike!

Thanks guys!!
 I've never had a problem with JB Weld but I have drilled out a SS spacer before and it surprised me at how tough it was !

 You are right Dave and that is exactly why I use those screw heads.
Tomorrow I'll show how I "fine tune" the endshake to get my final spec.

Mike

MIKE???. When is tomorrow? I just noticed that you did not post about the "fine tune endshake"  Rip Van Winkle??