Well, until it's done, the two assemblies will move with and against each other. This can end up with a chewed up wedge and displaced material in the barrel assy, right behind the wedge. Also, every time you move the wedge, you are moving the barrel/cylinder clearance so, without the arbor bottoming out, you never really have the same exact revolver each time you re-assemble it (or depending on the severity of the fit, shot to shot!!).
The arbor defines the barrel/cyl clearance and a bottomed arbor assures the same setup each time to assemble the revolver. Even if you tap the wedge in rather hard (as in smacking the fool out of it!!), the barrel won't meet the cylinder. I always tell folks to tap the wedge in and out rather than "finger tight". Tapping it (until it sounds and feels solid) " loads" the two assemblies and will allow it to maintain very close tollerances. Folks that just push the wedge in finger tight can measure the bbl/cyl clearance and then tap (really tap) and the measurement will change.
The arbors solid contact with the barrel assembly will transmit the vibrations throughout the revolver as if it is one assembly rather than two assemblies held together - fighting against each other with the wedge acting as the referee!!
A solid, close tolerance open top will shoot better, cleaner, be more consistent and reliable.
That, is the purpose of fixing the "short arbor " problem basically every Uberti has. The problem exists because of manufacturing. These revolvers would be much more expensive if any more than necessary "hand fitting" was utilized.
Pietta seems to have figgered out a better arbor fitment program in the past couple of years.
Mike
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