Banner image by Mike116

Banner image by Mike116

Author Topic: Bluing and Plating  (Read 17127 times)

Offline wicket

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 76
  • Newbie
    • View Profile
Re: Bluing and Plating
« Reply #15 on: May 06, 2016, 10:09:32 AM »
Richard, thanks for the link, I shall give it a try with brass.   I'll post some photos of the re-blued .61 and also a '51 which I use as a beater. Dunno how nitre bluing compares to other methods for durability, it's all Ive ever tried. I like the colors that are possible, and the simplicity of the process. Like with many bluing methods, surface preparation, particularly polish, is very important.

Offline wicket

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 76
  • Newbie
    • View Profile
Re: Bluing and Plating
« Reply #16 on: May 06, 2016, 10:37:41 AM »
  Speaking of peening out the Pieta markings, I did that on a '51 using a jeweler's hammer and a section of chainsaw file with the end rounded slightly and polished. Worked well enough, except that the pistol shoots way to the left now, three inches off POA at thirty feet. Windage was fine before I decided to defarb the poor thing. I dove tailed a blade sight onto the gun, but it looks absurd sticking out like the wing on a crippled turkey. Probably wind up clamping the barrel and swatting it with a lead hammer to see if it can be corrected. :'(

Offline ssb73q

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3847
  • Gunsmoke junkie
    • View Profile
Re: Bluing and Plating
« Reply #17 on: May 06, 2016, 10:58:37 AM »
Hi wicket, put the hammer away. You may want to check out this jig to produce a sight that has poi=poa:

http://blackpowdersmoke.com/colt/index.php?topic=1580.msg15004#msg15004

Regards,
Richard
There’s nothing better in the morning than the smell of bacon and black powder smoke!

Offline wicket

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 76
  • Newbie
    • View Profile
Re: Bluing and Plating
« Reply #18 on: May 06, 2016, 12:38:47 PM »
Richard...
Not sure I follow why cutting a dovetail with the jig pictured on the thread you linked will change the fact that the blade has to be drifted way off the barrel's center line to get the windage back to what it was originally. I opened up the hammer notch  to try and correct the problem, but couldn't gain enough. I'm really scratching my head here since I find it hard to believe that peening the barrel more on one side than the other could cause such a radical change, but I'm at a loss to come up with another reason; or a simpler solution than whacking the barrel upside its head 'till it behaves! ???

Offline ssb73q

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3847
  • Gunsmoke junkie
    • View Profile
Re: Bluing and Plating
« Reply #19 on: May 07, 2016, 04:09:01 AM »
Hi wicket, guess I missed where you said you already put a dovetail sight on the gun. I'm guessing, but maybe the defarb put uneven work hardening strain on the barrel? I wonder if an anneal would straighten the barrel? My Pietta barrel has roll markings on both sides of the barrel, maybe the burnishing stress will balance out?

IMO nothing with gunsmithing ever seems to goes easy.

Regards,
Richard
There’s nothing better in the morning than the smell of bacon and black powder smoke!

Offline wicket

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 76
  • Newbie
    • View Profile
Re: Bluing and Plating
« Reply #20 on: May 07, 2016, 06:49:13 AM »
  Great minds think alike Richard, I also wonder whether heat might accomplish anything. I'm guessing that in removing the Pieta markings I managed to stretch the metal more on one side of the barrel than the other, though it seems bizarre that I could knock the thing so far to the left that it hits three inches off over a measely thirty feet.
  Nothing about gunsmithing ever goes easy in my hands anyway. My beater is a beater because I tried erasing the roll stampings with a mig welder and then attempted to rust the gun electrolytically as part of an experiment in rust bluing.
 

Offline ssb73q

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3847
  • Gunsmoke junkie
    • View Profile
Re: Bluing and Plating
« Reply #21 on: May 07, 2016, 07:08:56 AM »
Hi, I think I have gone as far as I should trying to burnish out the Pietta marking on the .44 1851 barrel. Wicket's experience on changing the poi on the barrel has me concerned about going any further. A lot of the marking was returned to the barrel by burnishing, but not all. I hit the sides of the barrel with 320 grit paper to level any remaining raised lettering metal. This is the barrel ready for polishing:



Frankly, I don't mind the remaining Pietta barrel markings. I'm not trying to kid anyone on the lineage and a future revolver user should know who to sue if the barrel blows up.  ;) ;) ;)

Regards,
Richard 
There’s nothing better in the morning than the smell of bacon and black powder smoke!

Offline ssb73q

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3847
  • Gunsmoke junkie
    • View Profile
Re: Bluing and Plating
« Reply #22 on: May 07, 2016, 07:19:52 AM »
Hi wicket, using this sight calculator:

http://www.brownells.com/GunTech/Sight_Correction_Calculator/detail.htm?lid=13093

and the error you posted, you would only need to move the sight in the dovetail 0.067" to get poi=poa. IMO the sight wouldn't be that far over, but if it was me, knowing, it would drive me nuts. If there is residual stress in the barrel the poi may change as the barrel heats from shooting. If the poi remains the same, I think your lead hammer solution may be the way to go.

Regards,
Richard
There’s nothing better in the morning than the smell of bacon and black powder smoke!

Offline wicket

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 76
  • Newbie
    • View Profile
Re: Bluing and Plating
« Reply #23 on: May 07, 2016, 09:24:24 AM »
  Richard, I've damaged two guns playing around with the defarbing of the Pieta marks, and won't be doing it anymore (I'll just buy Ubertis). The roll engraving on the cylinders offends my eye more, and is easier to eradicate. I handled my first Colt as a kid in 1958, followed by a Remington in 1960, there's just something in me that appreciates cap and ball pistols with most of their original finish gone and replaced with the handsome patina that bare steel develops over time. On the other hand, I used to color my cap pistols with magic marker to give them the look of bluing!
  As a purely practical matter, I prefer a taller front sight on a Pieta, and have found that it's easiest for me to dovetail a replacement. Unfortunately, I always manage to damage the factory bluing during the surgery, with the bottled bluing never working out too well for me; it seems to wear away rather quickly. Stripping the barrel, giving it a good polish with carbide paper on a sheet of glass, and then nitre bluing works for me, but then I've never tried anything else.
 

Offline ssb73q

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3847
  • Gunsmoke junkie
    • View Profile
Re: Bluing and Plating
« Reply #24 on: May 07, 2016, 09:43:00 AM »
Hi wicket, it just came to me that the temperature of nitre bluing should anneal your bent barrel. Did you nitre blue that barrel that shoots left?

Regards,
Richard
There’s nothing better in the morning than the smell of bacon and black powder smoke!

Offline wicket

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 76
  • Newbie
    • View Profile
Re: Bluing and Plating
« Reply #25 on: May 07, 2016, 10:37:32 AM »
Good catch Richard! As a matter of fact I didn't nitre blue the barrel, I did an antique finish, i wonder...

Offline ssb73q

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3847
  • Gunsmoke junkie
    • View Profile
Re: Bluing and Plating
« Reply #26 on: May 07, 2016, 10:58:29 AM »
Hi wicket, on annealing the stress of burnishing pulled the barrel out of shape. There is only one solution left IMO, the lead hammer. Isn't metallurgy a bitch?

Regards,
Richard
There’s nothing better in the morning than the smell of bacon and black powder smoke!

Offline wicket

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 76
  • Newbie
    • View Profile
Re: Bluing and Plating
« Reply #27 on: May 07, 2016, 03:40:01 PM »
Well Richard, I can promise myself to consider all sorts of options to deal with this hellish, even dangerous windage problem  ;), but I know perfectly well that I'm gonna pin a target up, grab a sandbag, pad the jaws of my vice, and go to alternately whacking the pistol with a lead bar, and shooting it down the length of my basement to see whether anything's happening. The better angels of my metallurgical soul will not win against the lure of brute force, crudely applied.

Offline ssb73q

  • Hero Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3847
  • Gunsmoke junkie
    • View Profile
Re: Bluing and Plating
« Reply #28 on: May 09, 2016, 09:33:17 AM »
Hi, the Pietta .44 1851 barrel has been highly polished and is now ready for plating:



I still have mixed feelings on what to plate on it, copper or nickel. I found a sheet of palladium that could be used, but then the plate on the revolver may be worth more than the revolver.  )lI

I'll probably still move forward with copper plating. I understand that Elmer Keith once had a copper plated revolver that he liked. The patina on most of the revolver had gotten dark and even black, but the areas rubbed by the holster produced a bright copper color. He found that very attractive.

Regards,
Richard
There’s nothing better in the morning than the smell of bacon and black powder smoke!

Offline wicket

  • Jr. Member
  • **
  • Posts: 76
  • Newbie
    • View Profile
Re: Bluing and Plating
« Reply #29 on: May 09, 2016, 02:20:55 PM »
  Copper seems a safe bet, you can reverse it easy enough if it doesn't suit you.