Casting temperature

[ssb73q]

Hi, all my past lead casting has been by chance and the seat of my pants. I ordered and received a lead thermometer that will put some science and reproduciblity into my casting, see:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001TQ8Y6Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This should go a long way to consistence casting results for minimal cost.

Regards,
Richard

[mazo kid]

I have one just like that. It will tell you the lead temp, but if you set the knob setting the same each time, you can be pretty close. I usually turn the heat all the way up and start casting when the lead is good and hot. Then I turn the knob back down so I am casting at about 725*. Different molds/alloys will take different temps but you can set the pot the same each time for each variable.

[Captainkirk]

I use the thermostat knob on my Lee pot as well, coupled with the visual look of the lead itself after fluxing. If it starts turning colors it's too hot.

[ssb73q]

Hi kirk, that has worked in the past for me too. Find the correct thermostat setting and leave it there. I also purchased the thermometer to do nitre bluing in a Lee 20lb pot. The color gained in nitre bluing is very dependent on the salt bath temperature. The nitre salts can also be used for hardening a springs and revolver parts.

Regards,
Richard

[Powder Burn]

Looks like a lot of Lee pot users here. Hey, we can't be all bad. lol . Mine pours good between 675 degrees and 725 degrees. If it goes below 675 and heading into 650 degrees, I might have to stick the pouring spout with my needle on the end of my channel locks. With my temp about 725 degrees and I get good fill in my molds and don't have to use any tin. I do the usual seasoning of my molds by heating them to about 400 degrees after washing with water and Dawn dish soap.on my hot plate and letting it cool. I do this three times. I know some who don't even do that. They just go right into casting for the first time. I only once ever smoked my mold cavity with a Bic lighter then a old timer told me forget the smoke, just cast with the proper temperature of the mold so that's what I do. I run about 3 or 4 cycles of bullets through my molds and then the good ones start to come. I use molds from Accurate Bullet Molds and NOE for my cast bullets in 45-70,44 mag 44 spl.., 45 Colt,38 and 357,40 S&W. Of course my round ball molds are all Lee.

[ShotgunDave]

I really should get a thermometer too. I have been casting by the seat of my pants, and it didn't work out so good last time. My bullets came out of the mold frosty looking. It seemed no matter how I set the temp, they looked the same.

Also, the lead got a "mealy" look to it in the pot. I'd skim it off, but it would come back. I just need more practice.

[Powder Burn]

I really should get a thermometer too. I have been casting by the seat of my pants, and it didn't work out so good last time. My bullets came out of the mold frosty looking. It seemed no matter how I set the temp, they looked the same.

Also, the lead got a "mealy" look to it in the pot. I'd skim it off, but it would come back. I just need more practice.

What are you fluxing with? I just use some bedding wood shavings saw dust from my horse's stall. She doesn't seem to mind. I flux a couple times with it after it catches fire and burns out then scrape my pot to get the junk out. Then I lay another layer of sawdust down and let it catch and burn off then I just leave that floating on top of the melt. It's not going to make it to the bottom pour but before it does, I will remove it. That layer of burnt sawdust will keep your melt from oxidizing. Yes a thermometer will definitely come in handy. 

[ssb73q]

Hi Powder, IMO pure lead used for C&B revolvers doesn't require fluxing. Just skim off the surface oxide if desired. However, for lead alloy used for hard bullets, fluxing is required to keep the tin and antimony in the lead solution. Contaminated lead used for C&B can sometimes be improved by not fluxing and skimming off the tin, antimony, and dirt that segregates to the top of the lead melt.

If making harder than pure lead projectiles, I find that beeswax works great for fluxing, and beeswax is also useful for lubing the hot mold joints.

Regards,
Richard

[ssb73q]

Hi Dave, frosty looking projectiles sometimes means that the lead is too hot, or not pure lead. A lead thermometer is a must for consistent casting results. Once the casting sweet spot temperature is reached, leave the temperature control alone and set where it is for evermore.

Regards,
Richard

[Hawg]

With big bullets like .58 minies it's hard to get a temp that's just right. A thermometer might help with that. Mine are always frosted or wrinkled. I'd rather have them frosted.

[Powder Burn]

Hi Powder, IMO pure lead used for C&B revolvers doesn't require fluxing. Just skim off the surface oxide if desired. However, for lead alloy used for hard bullets, fluxing is required to keep the tin and antimony in the lead solution. Contaminated lead used for C&B can sometimes be improved by not fluxing and skimming off the tin, antimony, and dirt that segregates to the top of the lead melt.

If making harder than pure lead projectiles, I find that beeswax works great for fluxing, and beeswax is also useful for lubing the hot mold joints.

Regards,
Richard

Good info Richard. Thanks for passing that onto me. I did not know that about fluxing and pure lead.
Oh, besides the sawdust that I use for any fluxing, I sometimes use either candle wax or left over bullet lube from my Sizer/Luber. I'm finding that Beeswax is getting pretty dear in price lately and I need some more too because I like to mix that with Crisco for my over ball lube on my C&B revolvers.

[ShotgunDave]

With big bullets like .58 minies it's hard to get a temp that's just right. A thermometer might help with that. Mine are always frosted or wrinkled. I'd rather have them frosted.

That's where I have the trouble too Hawg. When casting the .54 cal bullets for my Sharps. They come out frosty and few are wrinkled. I throw the wrinkled ones back in the pot. But they come out that way, no matter how I set the temp.

[Retreever]

I've only just started casting in the last year and temperature maintenance has been a challenge. I bought the components to build a PID Controller for my Lee Pot and will likely be a project for this winter. I',m including a video link to the best description I have found.

[Powder Burn]

With big bullets like .58 minies it's hard to get a temp that's just right. A thermometer might help with that. Mine are always frosted or wrinkled. I'd rather have them frosted.

That's where I have the trouble too Hawg. When casting the .54 cal bullets for my Sharps. They come out frosty and few are wrinkled. I throw the wrinkled ones back in the pot. But they come out that way, no matter how I set the temp.

You have a Sharps ? I am so jealous. You're my hero. I keep telling myself," someday".

[ShotgunDave]

Indeed I do Powder Burn! It's an 1863 Paper Cutter model. Damn fine shooter. Highly recommend.