Model '94 .38-55

[LonesomePigeon]

My Grandpa gave me this gun, a Winchester Model '94 .38-55 sporting rifle made in 1894. It's been refinished but the bore looks pretty good. Now I have to learn how to make some black powder ammo for it.

[LonesomePigeon]

Markings are thin but all present.

[LonesomePigeon]

Here is the guts.

[mike116]

Refinished or not it's still a nice old Winchester.   Hex barrels are my favorite.   Are you going to load with the old Lyman tong tool.  I highly suggest you do.  It's not fast but it's a fun way to spend a few evenings putting some ammo together the way it was done when that rifle was built.   I would also look for an 1894 Winchester loading tool to go with it.  Congratulations on being gifted a cool old rifle.

[Hawg]

Nothing much to learn. Size the case, prime it, add 50 grains of bp, seat bullet lubed with a vegetable based lube. Load, shoot and repeat.

[LonesomePigeon]

I made a few rounds with the old Ideal tool but they jammed and wouldn't go into the chamber. The Ideal tool pictured is actually for a Marlin not a Winchester so maybe that's why. I also have some old Winchester ammo which I cycled but didn't shoot. It cycled okay but the weird thing is it seemed like the chamber was swaging down the end of the bullet. It seems like I need to use shells with more taper and maybe a smaller diameter bullet. Or maybe a shorter case. I dunno, I ordered some Cerrosafe so I can make a chamber cast.

[Hawg]

Read this. It may answer your question. https://www.starlinebrass.com/articles/Loading-with-Correct-38-55-Winchester-Cases--38-55-Rifle/

[valforgettaboutit]

That is a real pretty Winchester. Thanks for posting the photos.

[LonesomePigeon]

Went to a local gun shop yesterday and they had just got in two old '94's. They were brought in by the same guy, a man who inherited them from his father in law a long time ago. Both were carbines in .30-30, one from 1910 and the other from the 1940's. Both came with old, generic looking leather scabbards; one of which had a cattle brand that looked like it was carved with a pocket knife.

Anyways, the reason I bring this up is because it gave me the chance to try the actions on these old guns. The 1910 had a real smooth, easy action, the one from the 1940's was smooth too but stiffer. On the 1910 the locking bolts were a little bit loose and when engaged you could press then down about 1/8". The locking bolts on the 1940's one were rock solid.

Compared the above with my rifle. My action has a distinct hitch in it. The lever goes down smooth but when you are bringing it back up there is a point where it feels like it's hitting something. If you cycle it fast you don't notice it but if you cycle it slowly you can definitely feel a hitch. The locking bolts can also be pressed down a tiny bit like on the old 1910 described above.

[Hawg]

You said locking bolts several times. A Winchester 94 only has one. A 92 has two but they didn't come in 30-30.

[LonesomePigeon]

Thanks and duly noted, Hawg. Do you think the issues I mentiond, the "hitch" and the loose locking bolt, would indicate serious issues?

[Hawg]

What Scooby said.

[LonesomePigeon]

Thanks!

[LonesomePigeon]

I fired the '94 using lead bullets cast from the Marlin .38-55 loading tool and Starline long brass. I made 3 rounds entirely with the loading tool. I also found an old set of RCBS .38-55 dies at a local gun shop and I made 5 rounds with that.

Accuracy was poor but it was just a test run. The thing that bothered me was I did indeed get some primers backing out.

[LonesomePigeon]

I was using Goex 2F black powder. I used a lightly compressed full case on the ones I made with the Ideal tool and  about 28 grains plus cream of wheat filler in the ones made with the press.