.44 Spl S&W Not Seating Correctly

[Hawg]

Reloading will just let you shoot more. The factory open tops are made just like modern guns with better steel than the bp stuff. I wouldn't use really hard lead. It will likely lead up your barrel. If you shoot a lot of black powder I wouldn't waste pure lead unless it's all you have. Pure lead is good to around 1000 FPS. Much more and it will strip through the rifling and lead up your barrel. I use clip on wheel weights but they're getting hard to find. They're around a BHN of 12. Pure lead has a BHN of 5. I don't have my reloading/gun room set up yet. I've got major adjustments to make in there before I can do much of anything. I've mostly been using flat point FMJ because that's what I have the most of.

[dangt]

Zulch,  yes, I still have the Open Top I wrote about above.   I did add a shorter, 5.5" barrel that coincidentally is marked "44 Colt." That was what was available at the time.

  I also use 44 Russian cartridges ( my reloads with, again, Starline brass) in this gun.  I never did go through with an early consideration to get a 44 finish reamer and deepen the chambers.   It is too easy for me to feed the gun 44 Colt and 44 russian cartridges.

[dangt]

Some added info about my own revolver's refusal to be able to seat new, empty, un-crimped brass:

My throat diameters are .432"  .  I think I read above that your problem cartridges/bullets showed a mark on the bullet jacket when pushed forcibly into the chamber.  Is that right?  My own problem may be different than yours.   Nonetheless, I'll bet shorter cartridges would work fine in yours.

[Hawg]

 How do your fired cartridges fit? If they fully seat easily then your chamber length is fine. If they seat ok I really don't think you will have a problem with another brand of ammo. If you reload you can seat the bullets a little deeper in the case if you have chambering problems.

[Zulch]

Some added info about my own revolver's refusal to be able to seat new, empty, un-crimped brass:

My throat diameters are .432"  .  I think I read above that your problem cartridges/bullets showed a mark on the bullet jacket when pushed forcibly into the chamber.  Is that right?  My own problem may be different than yours.   Nonetheless, I'll bet shorter cartridges would work fine in yours.

Roger that dangt. It would leave an impression on the bullet. I will not buy those type again. I am glad that I was able to use them but shoving them in is hard on the thumbs. I just removed the cylinder for reasons of safety. Shorter would seem logical. By the way, would like to see a picture of your gun if and when you can? Thank you , Z

[Zulch]

Reloading will just let you shoot more. The factory open tops are made just like modern guns with better steel than the bp stuff. I wouldn't use really hard lead. It will likely lead up your barrel. If you shoot a lot of black powder I wouldn't waste pure lead unless it's all you have. Pure lead is good to around 1000 FPS. Much more and it will strip through the rifling and lead up your barrel. I use clip on wheel weights but they're getting hard to find. They're around a BHN of 12. Pure lead has a BHN of 5. I don't have my reloading/gun room set up yet. I've got major adjustments to make in there before I can do much of anything. I've mostly been using flat point FMJ because that's what I have the most of.

Hey Hawg. Thank you sir. Sounds like wheel weights if obtainable is the way to go for the open tops. The gun is a 2010 and I suppose that is still new enough that it is made of better steel?

[Hawg]

Hey Hawg. Thank you sir. Sounds like wheel weights if obtainable is the way to go for the open tops. The gun is a 2010 and I suppose that is still new enough that it is made of better steel?

Oh yeah it's safe. The C&B were made with no thought of them being used for smokeless so better steel wasn't needed. The open tops were made to shoot smokeless from the get go. I wouldn't use +P or hot handloads in them but a lot of modern guns aren't +P rated.

[45 Dragoon]

Oh yeah it's safe. The C&B were made with no thought of them being used for smokeless so better steel wasn't needed. The open tops were made to shoot smokeless from the get go. I wouldn't use +P or hot handloads in them but a lot of modern guns aren't +P rated.

 

Mike

[G Dog]

He didn’t really mean to say that.  Just a misstatement, surly.

Wait, I get it now.  Hawg means ‘open top’
not generically but rather refers to the postwar mods. That right, Hawg?

[Hawg]

Oh yeah it's safe. The C&B were made with no thought of them being used for smokeless so better steel wasn't needed. The open tops were made to shoot smokeless from the get go. I wouldn't use +P or hot handloads in them but a lot of modern guns aren't +P rated.

 

Mike

Whut? You disagree? Spit it out, don't beat around the bush.

[Zulch]

Let's hear it Mike??

[Captainkirk]

I think Mike was alluding to his Ruger Old Army conversions...?

[Hawg]

I think Mike was alluding to his Ruger Old Army conversions...?

 Rugers have no part in this conversation.

[dangt]

Zulch,  I'll post pics as you requested later today when the lighting is better. I dont have any pics of that particular gun in my files.

 Let me know if it is more appropriate to start a new thread for such pics.

[Captainkirk]

I think Mike was alluding to his Ruger Old Army conversions...?

 Rugers have no part in this conversation.

No, but the fact he can shoot +P ammo in them does.