Hi, the JB Weld and brass washers on the end of the arbor set up well and I filed the first brass washer to produce an average gap of ~0.005". Interesting that the forcing cone end of the barrel isn't parallel to the cylinder, the barrel edge closest to the arbor is ~0.002-3" closer to the cylinder than the top of the barrel. Wear on the cylinder face shows this to be an issue from day one. A little truing of the barrel end is required to have both the forcing cone end and cylinder parallel.
I took the revolver apart and other than some screw slot issues, everything looks great. When the Wolff reduced power spring comes in I will install it in the revolver. At that time I will also replace any screws that aren't absolutely perfect. The brass parts of the revolver were polished with BrassO, the internal parts Ballistolled and the revolver reassembled. This Uberti engraved revolver looks beautiful. It will be a joy to shoot with a 38 Special conversion cylinder. The revolver is now crying out for a Leathersmith Mike's holster.
BTW, use caution if wanting to add a reduced power spring to a Colt where you will do mostly C&B shooting. Cap misfires on the first hammer strike are common. The second strike will always set the cap off. When casual shooting at my range, I like the occasional misfires, it tells me about my shooting technique. The reason I use the reduced power spring on Colts is mostly for conversion cylinder use, it minimizes firing pin end mushrooming.
Regards,
Richard