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Well I took my can of these caps to the range yesterday. I used them on a Euroarms Remington. They were reliable and effective. I had no trouble firing the 30 gr FFg loads.
use .003 thickness copper foil I found at a craft store. I stamp out 1/2 inch disk with a hole punch. I use a drill press to shape the cups. I mounted a drill bit in the drill chuck with the shank downward.. my cap forming die is made of a suitable hard wood. Oak or very hard pine board 3/8 inch x 2 in by 6 inches. The dimensions are not so important . I drilled a hole in the center of the board with a bit matching the OD diameter of a #11 cap and one the OD of a #10 cap . Use a 1/2 inch bit to drill a counter sink cone on each hole. Clamp this board to your drill table so that one of the holes is aligned with the reversed bit. Next center one of the copper disk over the hole. Slowly lower the drill without power. Slowly push the disk into the hole to form a small copper cup. The disk are really 7/16 but works better than 1/2 inch disk. To improve the wooden Die I sanded the cone with fine sand paper to make the entry smooth. I also took a needle file and filed 8 wedge shaped indention in the cone and around the inside of the hole. This is to provide relief for folds to form on the cup. The craft store has copper foil 12/ 30 inches , .003 or .005 thickness. Ive been satisfied with the results. Pop can aluminum works. It is much more ridged. A little case lube helps. The copper is more malleable. Aluminum has more failures as the punch tears though the base for me about 25% of the tries. You get 90% of the copper for useable cups. Some are off center, but seem to work. As how to charge the primers. There are better sources than me. Sharpshooters is a place to start. Ive been using an old stash of ring caps.
I will and in a productive order