Nice video. This is another thing on my to do list.
Thanks drobs, I hope you find it helpful.
Hi Dave, what appeals to me about your method is that the paper doesn't need to be precut to a shape. Have you also made paper cartridges for your .36 revolvers? Other than the mandrel size, is anything else required? Do you use the same size paper?
Regards,
Richard
Richard, that's why I like this method as well. Most of the other methods floating around out there, require a pre-cut paper and end cap for the cartridge. Now I have to admit, they look fantastic. Neat and tidy. But this method functions just as well. And you could use a conical instead of a ball and it would work exactly the same.
For .36 caliber cartridges, the only difference is the mandrel. Besides the ball and wad size of course. I use the same paper and roll it exactly the same. The mandrel is sized as follows: The small end is .300" The taper runs up the dowel 1.15" and it's .380" diameter at that point. That makes a paper tube big enough for 20 grains of 3f powder and a wad plus the projectile. As with the .44 cartridge, you can leave the wad out if you don't desire it. The cartridge in this photo has no wad in it.
I've had zero problems with ignition of my cartridges. I'm sure that they rip open upon being rammed into the chamber, which fully exposes the powder to the ignition flash. I do get a few leftover ashes in the chambers sometimes. I believe it's the glue. If you put a little too much on the paper, it doesn't allow it to burn completely. I am going to experiment with some other glue, such as paste to try and eliminate leftovers in the chamber. But it's really not a big deal and it's not every shot. Most of the time they burn completely or the offending ash is blown out the barrel.
Hope that helps Richard.